With another Paris Fashion Week in the books, Whitewall is looking back on the Fall/Winter 2022 collections presented by Giambattista Valli, Loewe, Elie Saab, and Sacai.
Presented at Le Musée d’Art Moderne, Giambattista Valli’s dreamy dress-centric silhouettes returned for the Fall/Winter 2022 season with a romantic palette of hues like mint, pale pink, black, white, and red. Effeminate details and delicate prints imbued an elegant European glamor, exemplified in structured mini silhouettes with a retro attitude, matching sets, long knits and outerwear, body suits worn with tights, and a series of long and tea length gowns. Our favorite elements seen throughout the collection included tiers of tule and ruffles, giant flower appliqués, lacy corsetry, and draped or off-the-shoulder details.
A sizable remake of Anthea Hamilton’s 2010 work Aquarius set the scene for Loewe’s new designs, which focused on capturing viewers’ eyes with tactile fabrications and shapes that emphasized movement. Fabrications like rippling leather, felt, and latex made garments appear as though they had been moulded straight onto the wearer’s body, while silk, knits, tweed, 3D printed fibers and even resin composed draped silhouettes and structural details like breastplates in the shape of lips or balloons. These materials were also used to create unusual shapes like pants with waistlines that appeared to float around the torso, skirts in pelts of fur, blazers with twisting folds, and footwear featuring sculptural drawstring leather or giant bows. Prints were enlarged and photographic, featuring imagery like balloons, hands, or bodies, stretched to cover entire garments.
Striking gem tones and fearless silhouettes made up Elie Saab’s Fall/Winter 2022 collections. Finding inspiration in the 1990s, the maison brought a push and pull between simplicity and opulence. We saw memorable shapes like column gowns with ruffles, sculptural pleats reminiscent of coral or folding flower petals, and sweat suits reimagined in great volumes, which often featured a singular color and monochrome styling. Meanwhile, quintessential styles like bomber jackets, skirt suits, and double-breasted outerwear were given updates with details like sequins, detailed embroidery, quilted velvet, and beautiful floral prints—like our favorite sequined jacket and mini skirt, which was seen paired with tall leather boots.
Sacai’s Fall/Winter 2022 runway show brought new form to classic garments for the upcoming season. Dark neutrals and pops of red saw silhouettes undergo an exciting twist, reimagining suiting, outerwear, dresses, and other styles with sportswear details and hybrid shapes. There were shearling jackets as puffed dresses, strapless pinstripe tailoring layered over opposing-hued sleeves with upturned collars, off-the-shoulder puffers attached to more streamline outerwear, and long skirts with drawstring waistlines. A few highlight designs included a structured blazer with a belt woven through the lapels; a set in leopard print featuring a skirt with a silken waistband and a windbreaker layered over a sheer turtleneck; and an amply cut jacket in red and beige, styled with thigh-high, slouchy flatform boots in black leather.