From Paris Men’s Fashion Week, we’re sharing details on the Fall/Winter 2021 collections presented by Hermès, Loewe, Jil Sander, and more.
Hermès explored the ways clothing can energize us to renew the movement of the world for Fall/Winter 2021. Utilizing a casual elegance, the house played with lines and color, elements of practicality and formality, building a bridge between the inside and outside world through comfortable silhouettes like pants with drawstring waistlines, hooded parkas, and polo-collared pullovers left loosely unbuttoned. Imagined in rich materials like deerskin, wool flannel, cashmere, and silk, we saw looks like a pair of black wide-legged pants with a striped sweater and a mustard bomber jacket and a long wool pea coat with asymmetrical pockets, styled with trousers and pink and brown “H” sneakers.
Loewe’s Fall/Winter 2021 menswear debuts were presented by way of a Show in a Book,an original publication exploring Creative Director Jonathan Anderson’s inspirations for the season. Looking to the late artist and writer Joe Brainard, the M/M-designed publication allows viewers to experience the collection from home, following the house’s “Show in a Box” and “Show on a Wall.” Entitled “Eye/LOEWE/Nature Collections,” the new designs put a focus on the outdoors, proposing pragmatic garments created for contact with the elements. Movable silhouettes creatively highlighted ideas of patchwork and upcycling, mixing together elements from military, sports, and vintage styles, like in a pair of black leather pants covered in buckles styled with a knit sweater and tan Chelsea boots, a sweater knit from blocks of different colors worn with oversized plaid shorts, and a long t-shirt made from sewing together multiple shirts paired with pants featuring a comic-style print.
Jil Sander introduced a collection of suits, knitwear, and coats meant to define the wearer from their background. Looks of soft, lean silhouettes and meticulous layering highlighted a need for connection, touch, and intimacy, reinforced by sentimental details like necklaces with the word “mother” handwritten and portraits of women creators shot in the 1920s by Florence Henri seen as graphics on outerwear. The house proposed that smart men turn and wear their emotions outward with styles that suggest a wearer is unafraid of being, like in a coat in deep red with a leather detail across one side, a pants-and-duster set in a silky pearl gray material, a jacket in turquoise with simplistic lines, and a pair of tall, mint-colored boots with oxford details and laces.
A fresh outlook on the familiar was the lens through which Dries Van Noten executed its Fall/Winter 2021 collection. The purpose of dressing for the times brought forth styles that offered a sensation and reassurance, executed through elements like lightweight materials, contrast in sizing, and layered or wrapped detailing. The silhouettes themselves included classic, comfortable styles like loose trousers, turtleneck sweaters, cardigans, and blazers, though each has been updated with a twist. There were unique prints, mix and matched colors, extra fabric details, or the addition of accessories like chain belts or tall, slouchy socks. Highlight looks included a knit shorts and sweater set in gray, a pair of oversized washed jeans paired with a blazer and turtleneck in complementing maroon prints, and sportswear-influenced crinkled puffy pants styled with a sweater and scarf in an abstracted knit.
Wales Bonner’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection “Black Sunlight” explored a hybrid of Caribbean thought and Black British intellectualism for the third and final installation in its look at the intersections between the two locations. Embodying the radiance of the scholars, artists, and poets whose work focused on postcolonial progress, the collection pulled from international influences and a hybridization of men and womenswear, offering silhouettes that imbued a mood of relaxed self-possession. There was a matching tracksuit paired with a dress worn over the pants, a fitted white blazer paired with pinstripe trousers, and elements like wood block-inspired paisley, Indian embroidery, and boating stripes. The collection also featured a continuation of the house’s partnership with adidas and a collaboration with the artist Joy Gregory, whose knowledge of plants in Jamaican culture brought a selection of handprinted shirting.