Whitewall is looking back on the best of Paris Men’s Fashion Week with runway shows and fall/winter 2024-25 collections from Hermés, KidSuper, EGONLAB, AMIRI, AMI, and KENZO.
The Hermés Winter 2024 Collection Revels in a Luxurious New Euphoria in Menswear
Photo by Filippo Fior, courtesy of Hermés.
The Hermés Winter 2024 collection was stunningly enigmatic, reveling in a new, luxurious adaptability and euphoria in menswear. Both slim and voluminous shapes—with geometric and abstract patterns—sparked a noteworthy entrance. Reversible and changeable garments allowed for the ultimate stylistic whims to be seamlessly met, with lush materials including iridescent wool cloth and polished calfskin producing a lit-from-within glow. A mystical palette of anise, heather, pumpkin, crocus, khaki, and peat overflowed onto cashmere and argyle v-neck pullovers with lambkin patches, wool and unframed silk neo-racing jerseys, as well as shortened pea coats. Slender trousers in mohair canvas inlaid with satin were juxtaposed with wide, pleated iterations in cashmere flannel. The grand Boucle Sellier On The Rocks series of rings in diamonds and white gold were seen with elongated bell necklaces in palladium-finish metal and Swift calfskin, bringing to life a ravishing fantasy by Hermés.
“String Theory” Reflects Colm Dillane’s Intricate and Inspired Collective KidSuper
Photo by Francesc Ten for ESTROP, courtesy of KidSuper.
“String Theory” was the enveloping theme for KidSuper’s Fall/Winter 2024 runway presentation. The compelling philosophy proposes that all things are made of minuscule vibrating strings presenting as electrons and atoms, which in turn have a myriad of dimensions. Colm Dillane’s collective KidSuper—a creative vessel for art, music, film, and fashion—operates in this vein of intricate facets for ultimate exploration and experimentation. The noteworthy winner of the 2021 Karl Lagerfeld and LVMH Prize, as well as the 2022 CDFA/Vogue Fashion Fund, unleashed an exuberant new collection saturated with color, charisma, and flair. Striking day looks of “Brooklyn” varsity jackets paired with graphic, collared football jerseys, were shown alongside sweeping coats, button-up shirts, and trousers printed with surreal artwork. A dynamic collaboration with Canada Goose and the NBA was revealed on the spirited runway, which highlighted Dillane’s dreamlike artistry on must-have pieces including the Crofton Puffer Jacket, Reversible Puffer Vest, and Jacquard Toque.
EGONLAB’s 9th Collection, “ONLY LOVERS LEFT ALIVE,” is a Love Letter to Humanity
Courtesy of EGONLAB.
EGONLAB’s tremendous ninth collection, “ONLY LOVERS LEFT ALIVE,” unfolds as a love letter to humanity and the magnitude of pressures thrust upon us on any given day. Shining a light on mental health (the fashion house continually supports the public health and wellness organization PSYCOM), EGONLAB recognized the joy, pain, and suffering that ebbs and flows back and forth between social media and fragile human beings. Garments were worn on the runway as silhouettes safeguarding heart and soul, with meticulous tailoring which caressed the body or allowed it to take a relaxing breath. Billowing trousers made way for freedom of divine movement and escape, while sturdy shirts and jackets sparked courage and confidence. Optimistic fringe swayed across luminous leather jackets, hinting at the purity of angels rising above the chaos. A magnificent shade of green could be traced throughout the presentation as a glimmer of renewal and refreshment for all. A celebratory partnership with the UGGextreme™ line of sumptuous footwear amplified EGONLAB’s thunderous call for self-love.
The Autumn Winter 2024 collection by AMIRI Embodied the Modern Hollywood Idol
Courtesy of AMIRI.
Hollywood then and now provided fruitful inspiration for AMIRI—lovingly founded in Los Angeles. The Autumn Winter 2024 collection glittered across the runway like a reel of legendary film, set cinematically against velvet curtains in the atmosphere of a gilded movie theater. A mood of seductive Americana washed over the house’s latest looks, with a collage of vintage Hollywoodland and 90s audacity bringing together deconstructed tuxedos, pajama-like loungewear reminiscent of behind-the-scenes glamor, and high-waisted trousers with romantic sentiment and touches of skate culture. Archetypal red velvet theater seats spurred an array of dramatic jackets, with a flirtatious palette of burgundy, dusty blue, champagne, and tan infused into lush materials of mohair, washed leather, printed suede, and tweed. The MA Quad pattern premiered in Paris—a graphic monogram of the maison seen in embossed velvet suiting and printed silk scarves. The visionary Sunset Skate sneaker with a three-star motif and eye-catching proportions was collaged with Stacked Loafers in leopard print pony skin or crystal embellished iterations, paired with sleek wool beanies for supreme AMIRI magnetism from the screen to the street.
AMI Founder and Creative Director Alexandre Mattiussi Toasts to the Poetry of Paris
Courtesy of AMI.
Within the distinguished Tennis Club de Paris, AMI Founder and Creative Director Alexandre Mattiussi was energized by the poetry of Paris in the wee hours—twinkling with secrets and revelations for all. Guests of the much-anticipated runway show were immersed in darkness before light radiated through the vast space, eventually illuminating a charming Haussmann-style building facade and the elegant new collection. Models in definitively chic looks walked the runway, donning skillfully tailored jackets and trousers. Lithe silhouettes and perfectly tapering lines illustrated AMI’s sophisticated edge. Rich shades of navy blue, brown, black, and beige were grounding, while softened lilac, clay, and cream made room for prime self-indulgence. Accessories transitioned fluidly for all-day appreciation, from new bucket and bowling bags, to a Paname Paname messenger bag which curved intimately into the body. Sculptural gold buttons on garments were in riveting conversation with strass necklaces. The iconic striped heel of shoes in wood and black played against polished sunglasses and belts with Ami de Coeur buckles in an effervescent toast to the majestic City of Light.
“KENZO MAGIC GALAXY” Unveils an Epic Fall/Winter 2024 Women’s and Men’s Collection
Courtesy of KENZO.
The “KENZO MAGIC GALAXY ” was a fantastical Fall/Winter 2024 Women’s and Men’s Collection graciously led by Artistic Director Nigo. In a distinct dedication to Japanese designer and founder of the maison Kenzo Takada, the visionary Nigo championed the fashion house’s cultural origins through a thrilling exploration of Akira Kurosawa’s samurai films as seen through the eyes of George Lucas and the Star Wars saga. In a powerful meeting of cinema, sci-fi, and Japanese tradition, Nigo introduced vivacious new garments including a kimono coat designed as a warrior cape, a plissé dress concealing the figure like an otherworldly cloak, and shearling jackets that appeared as cosmic armor. An enchanting homage to the Japanese electronic band Yellow Magic Orchestra—and late musicians Yukihiro Takahashi and Ryuichi Sakamoto—unfolded in an original soundtrack by artist Cornelius played throughout the runway presentation. A revisioning of crimson gakuran school uniforms echoed the band’s legendary use of the classic Japanese suits as stage costumes. Signature weaves invoking the wood prints of Japanese hakeshi baten firemen jackets were spotted on denim, jacquard, and nylon, and the Furoshiki bag implemented the fine art of wrapping and knotting in graceful and scintillating KENZO fashion.
