In haute couture, few designers weave narratives as intricately as Robert Wun. This Hong Kong–born, London-based visionary redefines fashion with avant-garde designs that transcend garments, creating storytelling masterpieces akin to works by Leonardo and Michelangelo. Celebrating a decade of innovation with his label’s 10-year anniversary, Wun reflects on a journey marked by relentless creativity and craftsmanship.
Wun’s work, which is inspired by nature, cinema, and personal experiences, translates seamlessly into exquisite couture. His Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, “TIME,” explores the ephemeral nature of existence through a cinematic lens, articulating the passage of time with sophisticated design and emotional depth. Worn by icons like Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Celine Dion, and Cardi B, his creations are celebrated for their bold silhouettes, innovative materials, and sculptural forms.
In this exclusive interview with Whitewall, Wun delves into the philosophical underpinnings of his latest collection, reflects on pivotal career moments, and shares his vision for couture’s future.
Portrait Courtesy of Robert Wun.
WHITEWALL: In your Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, “TIME,” you explore the concept of time and its fleeting nature. Can you discuss the specific elements or moments that inspired this philosophical reflection and how you incorporated them into the designs?
ROBERT WUN: The inspiration for “TIME” came from a collective influence, especially as we neared our 10-year anniversary. Everyday scenes with a cinematic quality, like a picture of fallen leaves with sunlight filtering through, can evoke profound nostalgia and thoughts on life’s meaning. These relatable experiences—seeing snow, feeling sunshine, or a butterfly landing—grounded the collection. Everyone can relate to feelings of cold, warmth, or a skyline view. I believe a good collection should be instantly understandable, yet eye-opening and evoke immediate emotions, even if opinions on it vary.
“I believe a good collection should be instantly understandable, yet eye-opening and evoke immediate emotions,”
Robert Wun
WW: The “TIME” collection offers a cinematographic experience with themes of decaying flowers and seasonal changes. How did you translate these abstract concepts into tangible design elements and create this visual narrative?
RW: We combined realistic and surreal elements with meticulous craftsmanship. For seasons, we focused on textures, details, and colors. For snowfall pieces, we used heavy embroidery with crystals, sequins, and glass beading, transitioning from a colder core to transparent edges to simulate melting snow. For autumn leaves, we used velvet devoré on silvery fabric with tie-dyes in rich reds, browns, and oranges; hand-cutting and burning the velvet into leaves depicted decay, symbolizing aging. The collection embodies deconstruction and reconstruction, reflecting the natural cycle of aging and imperfection.
WW: Your latest collection progresses from Skin to Flesh, Bones, and finally Soul. Can you delve into the symbolism behind this progression and how each stage is represented through your choice of materials, colors, and silhouettes?
RW: Starting with Skin, I used sheer fabrics like silk, chiffon, and organza, printing human skin patterns in shades of beige to mimic texture and reflect societal beauty standards. For Flesh, inspired by anatomical illustrations, we used intricate embroidery with over 100,000 beads to emulate muscle contours, showcasing the human form’s complexity. Bones represent what remains when everything else is stripped away, incorporating detailed elements like pearls, sharpened teeth, and a spinal bone design, symbolizing the irony of immortality. Accessories like Morse code earrings add layers of meaning about eternal life. For Soul, the dress evolved from an all-white concept to a galaxy theme, inspired by a 1500s image of a glowing figure, representing the soul’s journey into the galaxy.
Courtesy of Robert Wun.
“The collection embodies deconstruction and reconstruction, reflecting the natural cycle of aging and imperfection,”
Robert Wun
Celebrating 10 Years of Profound Moments
WW: As you celebrate the 10-year anniversary of your brand, can you reflect on pivotal moments that have significantly influenced your creative vision and approach to fashion?
RW: A pivotal moment was my grandmother’s passing during COVID. This profound loss shifted my perspective, emphasizing creating out of love rather than ambition. Winning the ANDAM Award in late 2022 was another turning point. Before this, I was known primarily through social media. Reaching the finals was a milestone, but winning transformed everything. We gained recognition and support from the Parisian fashion community, including Bruno Pavlovsky from Chanel, who ensured we closed Couture Week with our first show in January 2023. These moments have profoundly shaped my career and approach to fashion.
WW: The Spring/Summer 2023 collection marked your debut on the Haute Couture calendar and closed Haute Couture Week. What was the concept behind this collection, and how did you prepare for this significant career moment?
RW: The pressure and unexpectedness of this collection were immense. Designing on such a scale was new to me, but I had a moment of clarity. Returning from Paris, I decided to pursue couture with determination. The first piece, a raincoat, encapsulated our approach: innovating and telling unique stories through craftsmanship. I aimed to transcend typical couture themes—flowers, beauty, bridal glamour—by incorporating everyday elements like stains and burn marks. This approach challenged norms, making the collection relatable and innovative. My goal wasn’t to shock but to provoke thought and inspire reflection quietly yet powerfully.
Courtesy of Robert Wun.
“My goal wasn’t to shock but to provoke thought and inspire reflection quietly yet powerfully,”
Robert Wun
WW: Your Autumn/Winter 2021 “Armour” collection was a heartfelt tribute to your grandmother and celebrated the strength of women. Can you share more about the personal stories that shaped this collection, and how you balanced emotion with artistic expression?
RW: The “Armour” collection honored my grandmother’s strength and resilience. Inspired by her wardrobe, it featured strong colors and culminated in a purple blazer suit, a nod to her memory. The “Armour” concept symbolized her determination as she raised my family through immense hardship, sewing shoes and making plastic flowers to support us. This collection celebrates all women and nonconforming individuals who have to work harder and sacrifice. Creating this collection was my way of immortalizing her legacy and expressing gratitude, resonating with many who share similar emotional journeys.
Fashion Energized by Nature, Humanity, and Meaning
WW: Your work often draws inspiration from films and nature. Could you highlight a few specific films or natural phenomena that have profoundly influenced your collections, particularly the SS2023 and AW2021 collections?
RW: While I don’t recall specific inspirations for SS2023 and AW2021, some films have significantly impacted my work overall. The Tree of Life explores nature, humanity, and meaning, teaching me to trust my creative process. Arrival offers a humanistic take on an alien invasion, focusing on learning and growth instead of fear. This perspective shows that the unknown can be an opportunity, inspiring me to prioritize originality and new interpretations in my work.
WW: You’ve collaborated on projects with The Royal Ballet and “The Hunger Games” series. How do these collaborations inform and challenge your creative process?
RW: These collaborations allow me to reimagine my work in new contexts. For instance, with Adele, we transformed a raincoat into a rainfall gown, creating a unique silhouette. I cherish when people interpret my work in their own way, appreciating the story and techniques. This transformative aspect of couture, where an idea is redesigned and given new life, is profoundly beautiful to me.
Courtesy of Robert Wun.
“I cherish when people interpret my work in their own way, appreciating the story and techniques,”
Robert Wun
WW: And with regards to the ballet costumes?
RW: It’s similar. Charlotte Edmonds saw a connection to my work and approached me with music and movement for her piece. She was drawn to a particular silhouette, and I suggested adding fluidity and an ombré effect. Artists, choreographers, and musicians often find something in my work that resonates with them, forming the foundation for our collaboration.
Elevating the Art of Couture with Personal and Universal Masterpieces
WW: Being the first designer from Hong Kong on the Haute Couture calendar is a significant achievement. How do you integrate your cultural heritage into your designs, and what message do you hope to convey to the global fashion community?
RW: Designers from non-Western backgrounds shouldn’t be celebrated solely for their heritage. While cultural identity can enrich a brand, it shouldn’t be its sole foundation, as this limits longevity and appeal. Many young designers see nationality and culture as their main assets, but this can confine their creativity. The predominantly Western-led industry shouldn’t dictate this narrative. I am proud to be the first from Hong Kong and Greater China at Couture Week, but my success isn’t about showcasing Chinese culture or Hong Kong–inspired designs for Western audiences. Such perspectives feel outdated. My creations, even when inspired by my hometown, aim to be personal and universal. I aspire to be among the best globally, not just the best Asian or Chinese designer. Excellence should be celebrated regardless of nationality, and this ambition should extend to all communities.
WW: Looking to the future, are there any new themes, concepts, or techniques you are excited to explore? How do you envision your brand evolving over the next decade, given your experiences and milestones?
RW: I’m excited about our upcoming Hong Kong show, where I’ll revive archival pieces from before my couture runway days. This collection will blend memories of Hong Kong with poetic and meaningful aspects of our regional culture, resonating with both locals and a global audience. We’ve also conceptualized the next couture collection, developing new techniques and embracing a collaborative mindset to redefine couture beyond traditional methods. By incorporating insights from scientists and museum professionals, we’re aiming to elevate the art of couture. This is the direction we’re heading in now.
Courtesy of Robert Wun.
