As the oldest continually operating Swiss watchmaker in the world, it is unsurprising that Vacheron Constantin brings a storied, rich approach to its craft. Still, the brand continues to up the ante of its narratives, most recently debuting a stunning set of limited-edition watches that richly, thoughtfully pay homage to ancient Chinese culture.
Vacheron Constantin Pays Homage to a Legendary Chinese Motif
Each of the four new pieces invokes the “Seawater Cliff,” a legendary Chinese motif that first appeared during the Ming and Qing dynasties in the fourteenth century. The depiction of bold, sweeping waves breaking against rocky cliffs is omnipresent in artifacts of the time, cast upon furniture, porcelain, architecture, and imperial clothing. At the time, the design was reserved for the Imperial family. It is easy to understand why the Maison took a particular interest in this symbol as a touchpoint for the culture: its deep-rooted ties to luxury and history feel wholly congruous with Vacheron Constantin at large.
Partnering with Chinese Symbolism and History Expert Mr. Song
For its new Métiers d’Art, Vacheron Constantin teamed up with Mr. Song, the Former Associate Research Librarian of the Palace Museum in Beijing and an expert in Chinese history and symbolism. Song has extensively documented the “Seawater Cliff” in his own research, prompting him to recommend it for the dials of the four limited-edition watches. Named under Emperor Wanli, the motif of unshakeable cliffs in the face of powerful waves brings to mind ideas of immutability, longevity, and resilience.
“The interesting thing about history is that ancient civilizations reached an extreme level of sophistication in decorative techniques. Often, some of these techniques have even gradually vanished with the industrialization and digitalization of our societies,” Style & Heritage Director Christian Selmoni mused. “It’s up to a Maison like Vacheron Constantin, which is strongly committed to preserving artistic craftsmanship, to highlight these techniques by drawing inspiration from the most accomplished creations in this field.”
“The interesting thing about history is that ancient civilisations reached an extreme level of sophistication in decorative techniques.”
— Christian Selmoni
Housed in a 38-millimeter-diameter case in 18K pink or white gold, these watches are powered by the brand’s Calibre 2460 mechanical movement. Aesthetically appealing and compact in its dimensions, each of the four pieces is endowed with a 40-hour power reserve and features a 22K gold rotor.
The meticulous, intensive labor required of these pieces is a testament to the Maison’s craftsmanship. It takes 50 hours alone to lay the 222 gold wires that shape the “Seawater Cliff” motif on each watch. Enamel was then applied in successive layers according to color and intensity, with a kiln firing between each layer; it took another 70 hours to achieve the piece’s rich, defining hues.
Vacheron Constantin’s New Métiers d’Art Collection Soars to New Heights of Craftsmanship
In the typical fashion of the ever-innovative watchmaker, each piece employs different techniques to yield stunningly different creations. “For the Eternal Flow timepiece, the cloisonné enamel technique, which originated in China, was the natural choice due to the flexibility it affords in the choice of colors and the graphic creation of highly elaborate shapes,” said Selmoni. “For the dial of the Moonlight Slivers watch, the aim was to achieve a depth effect on a monochrome base. Engraving is the only way to achieve this kind of result, with recessed enameled and gem-set parts and others in relief to accentuate the 3D effect, which is achieved here using a ‘flat wash’ uniform layer of paint in a single color.”
A Forceful Expression of Chinese Cultural Symbolism
If these watches weren’t sufficiently entrenched in Chinese history already, the outer bezel of each timepiece is hand-engraved with a bat motif; in Chinese, “bat” and “happiness” have similar pronunciations, and the animal is thought to be a harbinger of good fortune. The result is a collection of watches that are profoundly reflective of a bygone era yet timeless in their depiction of resilience, yielding art pieces that are as luxurious as they are complex.