Within this year’s brilliant Watches and Wonders 2024 presentation in Geneva, Vacheron Constantin raises the curtain on two pioneering grand gestures with Les Cabinotiers’ Berkeley Grand Complication and the Patrimony Manual-Winding and Patrimony moon phase retrograde date.
Les Cabinotiers’ The Berkeley Grand Complication; courtesy of Vacheron Constantin.
From Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers—a series from the watchmaker offering bespoke timepieces as well as a collection of unique, one-off watches—The Berkeley Grand Complication debuts as the record-breaking world’s most complicated watch—a Chinese perpetual calendar programmed until 2200, featuring 63 horological complications as a result of 11 years of determined research and progress.
Alongside the tremendous creation, the Patrimony Manual-Winding and Patrimony moon phase retrograde date rejoices in two decades of minimalist mastery with the unveiling of three new timepieces. Handsome details such as a sunburst antique silver-toned dial, a customizable caseback, a sleek 39 mm diameter in manual-winding editions, and vivacious strap colorways pay homage to a time-honored legacy.
Les Cabinotiers’ Berkeley Grand Complication Debuts a Horological Victory in Geneva
Les Cabinotiers’ The Berkeley Grand Complication; courtesy of Vacheron Constantin.
With 2,877 components, Les Cabinotiers’ Berkeley Grand Complication’s genuine Chinese perpetual calendar singularly illuminates the nuances of a manifold and shifting cycle—a magnificent victory of horological expertise. This landmark event in modern watchmaking history encompasses one full year committed to assembly alone, and honors its ever-inspired commissioner who granted the bespoke masterpiece with its poignant title.
Perfecting the art of unrivaled hand craftsmanship, visionary creativity, and beaming innovation since its foundation in 1755, the savoir-faire of Vacheron Constantin knows no bounds. Three watchmakers were placed at the heart of these 11 years of meticulous development, bringing their individual skill and wisdom to every facet of the project.
A Visceral Understanding of Chinese Culture Meets a Feat of Decorative Arts
Making of Les Cabinotiers’ The Berkeley Grand Complication; courtesy of Vacheron Constantin.
Within these 63 horological complications sits 245 jewels, 31 hands, and 9 discs. A visceral understanding of Chinese culture was required to conceive the first watch as a perpetual calendar, and the three deft watchmakers modeled the calendar in algorithms, transcribing them as a revelatory timepiece. The beguiling silhouette of the Chinese zodiac animal reveals itself for the given year in an aperture below the moon phases. High-precision astronomical and chiming functions make way for striking shades of the Gregorian calendar and complementary alarm.
The trailblazing timepiece is also a stunning feat of the decorative arts with a chic 18k white gold case featuring polished bezels, a winding crown starring a sapphire crystal, and subdials enhanced by opaline silver-toned and sunburst finishes. The watch’s gilded movement upon a frosted base, embellished with a ravishing Côtes de Genève pattern, offer splendor and restraint. A noble partnership between a spirited collector and masters of the Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinoers department, The Berkeley Grand Complication is nothing less than a wonder of our modern times.
Les Cabinotiers’ The Berkeley Grand Complication; courtesy of Vacheron Constantin.
Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director of Vacheron Constantin remarked, “I have boundless admiration for the complexity of this timepiece, its level of finishing and its precision, given the 63 complications. It is the epitome of hyper-horology, stemming from years of effort and ingenuity. After Reference 57260, one might have thought it represented the ‘last word’ in this field. As we can see, it is possible to take demands a step further by achieving what no one has ever managed before, namely a Chinese perpetual calendar without any correction until 2200.”
The Patrimony Collection Beckons Under the Annual Theme: From Geometry to Artistry
The Patrimony Collection; courtesy of Vacheron Constantin.
Preserving the tantalizing style of its minimalist watches developed in the 1950s—alongside optimistic revolutions in fashion and architecture—the refreshing Patrimony collection newly beckons under the brand’s annual theme: “From Geometry to Artistry.”
The Patrimony Manual-Winding has thoughtfully evolved since 2004, now offering clients luxurious simplicity in its 39mm diameter and pink or white gold sculpted case. A trademark convex dial with sunburst-finished surface rises to the occasion in a revitalized new old-silver shade—collaging vintage and modern sensibilities with pink gold slender hands and hour markers, and a curvaceous minutes track with 48 polished 18k gold pearls.
Alligator leather straps in azure-blue or olive-green bring exhilarating dynamism from sunrise to sunset, and the closed caseback allows the meaningful gold engraving of celebratory sentiments or symbolic designs.
Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date is an Understated Prize
The Patrimony Collection; courtesy of Vacheron Constantin.
Patrimony moon phase retrograde date leaves no stone unturned as the maison’s an understated prize. The 42.55 mm white gold case is introduced in a vibrant new dial hue of sunburst old-silver, juxtaposed with hands and hour markers of pink gold. An in-house self-winding calibre powers two complications, a moon-phase indication and a retrograde date display.
The sapphire crystal caseback discloses the house’s admired emblem of a Maltese cross—a vital shape that energizes the open-worked 18k gold oscillating weight. An olive-green alligator strap is a verdant addition for new and long-standing collectors alike.
A Watch Both Timeless and Firmly Rooted in its Era by Vacheron Constantin
The Patrimony Collection; courtesy of Vacheron Constantin.
In reference to the profound minimalist nature of Patrimony, Selmoni said, “It is certainly true that the design of the Patrimony is so simple—at least apparently so—that modifying it without altering its character is a tricky exercise.”
“The Patrimony rapidly established itself as the quintessential classic watch, appreciated by men and women alike. Since its launch in 2004, we have opted to develop it in a very subtle way,” said Selmoni. “This has been reflected first and foremost in the choice of mechanisms, such as the Patrimony retrograde day-date in 2006; the Patrimony perpetual calendar ultra-thin in 2011; an ultra-thin minute repeater in 2013; and the Patrimony moon phase retrograde date in 2017.”
“Aesthetic evolution also involves discreet adjustments in terms of diameter, for example. This is what we are offering this year with a reduction in the diameter of the manual-winding Patrimony, a new dial color, new strap colors and a place reserved for personalisation. One of the strengths of the Patrimony is that it is both timeless and firmly rooted in its era,” said Selmoni.
