Yesterday, Christian Dior’s Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborated with Joana Vasconcelos to bring the Autumn-Winter 2023-24 collection to exuberant life. Titled “Valkyrie Miss Dior,” the hypnotic set design by the Portuguese artist—composed of decadent, bulbous, organic forms embellished with intricate lace, embroidery, and crochet patterns pulsing with light and life—was the spectacular setting for Chiuri’s re-imagining of 1950s French style. Inspired by three exceptional women: Catherine Dior (Monsieur Dior’s sister), Édith Piaf, and Juliette Gréco, Chiuri’s signature, the inventive blending of grace and power in form and fabric was taken to new heights by the fierce vision of Vasconcelos’s in a sweeping work of creative freedom and boundless femininity.
Photo by Adrien Dirand, courtesy of Dior.
Dior, Piaf, and Gréco’s energetic and artistic subversion of post-war feminine stereotypes set the stage for Chiuri’s fresh exploration of the past, present, and future of the legendary fashion house. Gréco and Piaf created personal and professional wardrobes that echoed their beloved French heritage as well as their poetic way with words and song, while Dior’s liberated spirit overflowed into her nurturing and selling of flowers to communicate the optimism inherent in mother nature.
Photo by Adrien Dirand, courtesy of Dior.
Photo by Adrien Dirand, courtesy of Dior.
Vasconcelos is known for creating immersive installations that blend “high” and “low” materials while challenging convection with a feminist perspective. She’s shown works at the Venice Biennale, was notably the first female artist to exhibit at the Château de Versailles in 2012, and was distinguished with a solo show at the Bilbao Guggenheim in 2018. The artist evoked Miss Dior’s dedication to the French Resistance and her adoration of the florist trade in the reimagining of the Valkyrie. Known as supremely courageous women, the Valkyries are goddesses of Norse mythology, unafraid of close encounters with danger for the greater good. “Valkyrie Miss Dior” was a dynamic conversation with unforgettable women by way of complex floral textiles, reminiscent of the maison’s archive, and an homage to the flowers of Miss Dior conceived as a larger-than-life art installation and immersive runway experience.
Courtesy of Dior.
Chiuri’s mutual appreciation of fabrics that spark emotional memories and honor artisanship was on full display in the collection. A return to Monsieur Dior’s floral motifs was adorned with interlacing metallic threads, producing a surreal, kaleidoscopic effect. Tartan fabrics gleamed with powerful primary hues such as red, blue, and topaz yellow. Decorative coats and jackets were tied elegantly at the waist or flowed freely over sleek poplin dresses and “corolle” skirts. Exquisite, shimmering embroidery reflected the dreamlike mise-en-scène. Shapely undergarments commanded attention from beneath sheer black overlays, set off by reflective black gloves, royal headpieces, and star-studded footwear. Like the iconic muse herself, “Valkyrie Miss Dior” was a blossoming, effervescent step into the future of femininity.
Courtesy of Dior.
Courtesy of Dior.
Photo by Adrien Dirand, courtesy of Dior, courtesy of Dior.
