We’re voyaging through the best of London Fashion Week, and highlighting the inspirational fall/winter 2024 collections of Simone Rocha, Emilia Wickstead, Molly Goddard, Harris Reed, and Completed Works.
Simone Rocha Pays Homage to Queen Victoria for the Autumn/Winter 2024 Collection
Photo by Ben Broomfield, courtesy of Simone Rocha.
“The Wake” revealed the final chapter of a Simone Rocha masterpiece for autumn/winter 2024. Beginning with “The Dress Rehearsal” for spring/summer 2024, and continuing on with “The Procession” alongside visionary Jean Paul Gaultier, the final installment deeply considers the mourning dress of Queen Victoria. In an opulent homage to the safeguarding of treasured garments and memories, baroque-inspired looks haunt and dazzle with innocence, seduction, and power. A baby blue gown commenced with volume and drapery in a cocoon shape embracing the torso, leading to a diaphanous veil studded with crystals and placing the legs in shadow.
Pale shades of pink, green, and ivory washed over fanciful pieces with puffed sleeves, corsetry, and satin braided embellishments, offering transcendent, uber-feminine looks for moments of privacy and spectacle. A transition into a darker palette, with sumptuous hues of brown, blue, black, and gray, evoked an air of mysterious nobility. Simone Rocha x Crocs 2.0 extended a profound collaboration of ethereal footwear enhanced by shimmering pearls, angular spikes, and regal Jibbitz charms.
Emilia Wickstead’s Kaleidoscopic Show Echoes the Vibrancy of Mid-Century New York
Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead.
Covent Garden’s former London Film Museum was a spirited backdrop for Emilia Wickstead’s autumn/winter 2024 collection. Titled “Metropolitan Essence,” the kaleidoscopic show echoed the vibrancy of mid-century New York, offering a photographic peek into the secret realms of Teddy girls and boys, burgeoning academics, and downtown aficionados. A rush of energy in candy pink, lime green, fiery red, and neon blue sparked intrigue and effervescence in shapely mini dresses, chic mohair sweaters, and lofty suiting; floral imagery and embroidery added a sense of organic beauty to each beguiling piece.
Jacquard knitwear, preppy shirts, and provocative suit sets in pewter, onyx, and gold were paired with sheer black trousers and loafers by Grenson with whimsical tassels. Evening wear was made cinematic in organza embroidery with enduring movement, providing striking details in sequins and geometric lines. An after-hours shade of maroon made an awe-inspiring appearance in leather skirts and jackets, as well as in a statuesque gown, reflecting a legacy of slick, defiant, and romantic New York City street style.
Molly Goddard’s Autumn/Winter 2024 Runway Beckons an Adventure in Femininity
Photo by Ben Broomfield, courtesy of Molly Goddard.
Within the Cecil Sharp House, beneath an abstract mural of a rural paradise envisioned by Ivon Hitchens, Molly Goddard’s autumn/winter 2024 collection gracefully unfolded. To the electronic tune of “You’re Nogood” by composer Terry Riley, a modern revisioning of archival gems shared an enchanting tale of fluid femininity on the runway. Dresses conjuring the splendor of 1960s Dior and Balenciaga gowns were infused with voluminous movement and potent color; lively in their variations, from sweetly short to dramatically long, draped or ruffled, in shades of fuschia, burgundy, navy, and blush, each look was beckoning an adventure.
Celestial polka dots and cowgirl design details were reminiscent of a young girl playing dress-up—the more theatrical the better. Languid ribbons and pliable rosettes on gowns and plush sweaters were in hushed conversation with tulle and satin handbags, darling cowboy boots and ballet slippers, devising a singular voyage through the imagination.
Best of London Fashion Week: Harris Reed’s Victorian Era Shadow Puppet Designs
Photo by Marc Hibbert, courtesy of Harris Reed.
“Shadow Dance” was the thrilling theme of Harris Reed’s February 2024 collection, roused by the intrigue of Victorian-era shadow puppets. The dramatic figures, brimming with style and emotion, led to a paper doll-like process of adorning sketched characters with surreal garments. A wealth of color and print were expertly implemented into sensational works of art. Wallcovering legend Fromental joined forces with the designer in a riveting act of sustainability, lending silk wallpapers from the archive for the introduction of luminous new fabrics crafted with haute couture prowess.
Nineteenth-century silhouettes, in all their curvaceous glory, found their way onto jewel-toned dresses hugging the waistline and avant-garde corsets featuring floral enigmas. Hand-beading cascaded down a yellow and navy structured gown, while an hourglass-shaped onyx dress was playfully provocative with towering feather trim. Luxurious rounded shapes were seen in a larger-than-life lapel with tranquil bird imagery, as well as in crinoline skirts, and mystical hats developed with Vivienne Lake. Platform H-Boots, produced with Roker, lent an edgy delight to each and every mesmeric silhouette.
Creative Director Anna Jewsbury Reveals a Collaborative Show for Completedworks
Photo by Genevieve Lutkin, courtesy of Completedworks.
Creative Director Anna Jewsbury ruminated on the misty mindscape for Completedworks autumn/winter 2024 collection. A glorious performance by actress Joanna Lumley of author Fatima Farheen Mirza’s commissioned work replaced the classic runway show. Titled “Confessions of Lilith,” the monologue gave voice and meaning to the multi-layered collection and sparked a vivacious feminine dialogue. Liquid silhouettes with volumes that rose and fell like the human spirit were spotted in rings, earrings, and necklaces. Shivers of pink and green flowed through sensual, ethically sourced gems, while gleaming pearls raced around the neck and visage in mermaid-like showpieces.
Must-have handbags in deadstock leather, featuring charming bows, were vessels of inspiration in white, black, sand, and green. Homewares ingeniously reflected the monologue’s thematics, presenting carafes, wine glasses, and tumblers that swayed to and fro, searching to make sense of everyday routine and the gift of extraordinary life.
