Revealed at the Triennale Milano this Milan Men’s Fashion Week, Gucci Men’s Spring/Summer 2025 runway show took over the halls and stairways of the contemporary museum. Onlookers were met with flurries of color and front-row guests including Serena Williams, Venus Williams, and Paul Mescal.
Triennale Milano Sets the Contemporary Stage
Speaking on the show’s setting at the Triennale Milano and its connection to the collection, de Sarno said, “Like the sea that washes every shore without prejudice, so too a museum is an entirely open space, nourishing those who are drawn to it.” The contemporary art space spoke to Gucci’s modern eye as an artistic hub in the center of Italy’s creative city, setting the stage for de Sarno’s constant exploration of the relationship between art and fashion.
The New Collection’s Highlights
“This collection speaks of encounters – incontri – between the city and the beach, and among people who love life. Ultimately, it speaks about freedom,” said de Sarno. “I feel free when there is no distance between my words and my thoughts, between my actions and my heart. I hope that people feel free and welcomed in my clothes.” With this collection, the designer evoked feelings of liberation and a new path for the maison.
Among its new shirt designs, Gucci rejected the classic bowling shirt in favor of a three-pocket utility style. The summer color palettes included coastal infinity prints with surfers, dolphins, hibiscus flowers, and banana leaves.
Inspiration from utility style was evident in zip-up jackets, opting for a boxy fit and large square pockets. Collars appearing to be in corduroy were instead made of embossed leather. This feature forged a bold contrast from the rest of the soft-toned jacket, including those in shades of lilac and gray.
Additional long sleeve jackets brought tastes of summer freshness, with their sorbet tones and beaded, wave-like, fringes that provided further dynamism to the collection. Parallel with these adornments were Gucci’s latest long-sleeved polo shirts that featured hand-knitted paillettes.
Gucci’s latest tailoring work featured two formalwear silhouettes. One, with three-buttoned suits and matching pants was a vision of precision, pressed to maintain its distinct shape. The other formal design, with its lightweight poplin material, similarly featured a straight silhouette, yet was more relaxed.
A Traditional Gucci Motif Continues
The maison’s traditional horsebit design made an appearance throughout the show as Gucci celebrated the design 70th anniversary from its first public showcase in 1955. Notably, the house features the horsebit on its newest shoe designs, debuting loafers and boots with structural, pointed toes. Along similar lines, the collection’s belts were held together with similar symmetrical hook buckles, harkening back to this traditional shape. With the horesebit’s feature, de Sarno reminded us of Gucci’s evolution and modern spins but simultaneous appreciation for its classical emblem.
The collection additionally featured the Gucci B bag created in new sizes, with the show including a regular size and a miniature version. Several of the maison’s latest bags were also inspired by their archival luggage designs, showing their classic roots as a base point for the house’s exploratory collection.
With its playful and colorful twang, Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2025 menswear collection welcomes the summer and the maison’s latest direction.