Dior’s Kim Jones boldly explores the evolution of menswear in the fall/winter 2025 collection, presented at Paris Men’s Fashion Week on January 24. Drawing from Christian Dior‘s iconic 1948 and 1954-55 collections, Jones expertly fused historical menswear with modern innovation. The collection blends opulent femininity with classic garments, creating a captivating narrative that redefines the future of menswear. Each piece paid homage to Dior’s rich legacy while shaping it for today’s gentleman.
Staying true to Dior’s aesthetic, the show took place in a minimalist, shadowy grey space, creating an almost otherworldly atmosphere. Models descended from a striking white staircase, with their garments transforming under the stark light. Jones thoughtfully curated the set, merging strict sophistication with lavish opulence, using the grandeur of the staircase to elevate the experience.
Kim Jones Draws from Christian Dior
Courtesy of Dior.
Courtesy of Dior.
Jones dug back into the Dior archives to find inspiration for this complex menswear collection. “We wanted to go back to the roots and concentrate on the quintessence of the house. There is a sense of fashion history, particularly the history of menswear, running through this collection” said Jones. By referencing Mr. Christian Dior’s “Ligne H” collection of fall/winter 1954-55, he found a deep interest in the combination of couture and ready-to-wear and the strong metamorphosis motif. We saw this theme in jackets shape-shifting into skirts, or traditionally masculine garments that held a touch of elegant femininity.
“We wanted to go back to the roots and concentrate on the quintessence of the house,”
Kim Jones
Eye-catching hand-embroidered shoes featured an archival shoe embroidery from 1961, bringing design history into modern designs. The majority of the delicate embroidery in the collection draws from Dior’s spring/summer 1948 Haute Couture collection’s “pondichéry” look.
Dior Looks at the Ladies’ Man
Courtesy of Dior.
Courtesy of Dior.
Jones played with themes of masculinity and femininity, drawing inspiration from the figure of Casanova, embodying both the ‘ladies’ man’ and the extravagant dresser. We saw a beautiful blend of women’s haute couture influence, men’s ready-to-wear, and 18th-century opulence telling the story of modern menswear emerging from its roots.
Leather underscored this sense of duality. Softly constructed bags, with their pliable forms, were created with masculine hardware, balancing elegance with strength. Shoes combined traditional masculine craftsmanship seen in classic leather dress shoes and highly polished boots, with more feminine touches, like the knotted satin “bow cap” on the toes. A recurring motif of the couture bow throughout the collection teased this interplay of bold masculine garments with a feminine touch.
Masculine patterns of pinstripes and herringbone were reinterpreted with delicate flourishes, while intricate glass beading added a layer of refinement, blurring the lines of gendered style. The contrasting slate black against a powerdery pink flirted at the limits of masculinity.
Silk, Satin, and Silhouettes for Dior Men’s
Courtesy of Dior.
Courtesy of Dior.
Delicate fabrics such as silk and satin were used to craft dramatic silhouettes. Interacting with the lighting of the runway the sheen of material and interplay of shadows create a divine chiaroscuro effect. It was a fabulous way to use once-feminine materials to create successful modern menswear garments.
The silhouettes were dynamic, shifting from fitted to flared, with notable influences from Dior’s women’s archive, particularly in the voluminous opera coats and robes. These pieces featured structured belts embellished with silver, adding an element of fluidity and grandeur. Throughout the collection, the use of silk, satin, silver, and varied silhouettes created a striking balance of opulence, craftsmanship, and a reinterpretation of Dior’s legacy.
Courtesy of Dior.
