FENDI debuted an Autumn/Winter 2024 collection that embraced contradictions. Of the 53 womenswear looks the label debuted this Wednesday, each was simple and theatrical, sexed-up and subtle, traditional and subversive. Asymmetrical tailoring took center stage. Thick wool coats borrowed from the language of robes, casually tied and belted at the waist. Silk knitwear was so thin it formed a second skin, clinging to the wearer’s ribs. Utilitarian dresses were practical yet elegant, softened by touches of tulle and organza. This is a collection that proudly flaunted FENDI’s artisanal prowess, employing high-shine waxed finishes and the painstaking Agugliato needle-punching process. Shearlings and leathers were accompanied by sumptuous bags designed by none other than Silvia Venturini Fendi herself, ranging from baguettes to rounded shoppers. Artistic Director Kim Jones cited the Blitz Kids, the New Romantics, and ‘80s-era Japanese style as influences of this collection, having spent time digging into the label’s archive circa 1984. These sources of inspiration amalgam to yield a collection that is pragmatic and playful, comfortable but smart.