New Paris Fashion Week collections advocated for living with uncompromising individuality as the ultimate creature comfort. Here, Whitewall paints a vivid picture of contemporary passions through the visions of Acne Studios, Dries Van Noten, Balmain, and more.
Acne Studios Creative Director Jonny Johansson Offers a Softer Side of Living
Courtesy of Acne Studios.
Courtesy of Acne Studios.
Acne Studios summoned guests into a whimsical portal of domesticity for Spring/Summer 2025. Creative Director Jonny Johansson explored a patchwork of classic codes and unconventional gestures set within a rebellious scenography by Philadelphia-based visual artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase. A fanciful meets grunge universe of softened furnishings embellished by graffiti-like artwork rejoiced in powerful realms of the Black and queer experience, as well as the enduring comfort of a place to call one’s own. In this gentle setting, a blissfully avant-garde collection unfolded. A play on illusions—in life and in art—produced a skillful layering of volumes, silhouettes, and patterns. Highlights like hand-crocheted knit sets invoked the warmth of a kitchen tea cozy, while vintage floral prints juxtaposed with leather and latex pieces advocated for living with uncompromising individuality as the ultimate creature comfort.
“I want to put a lens on interior moments—these domesticated, soft, tender moments,” said Johansson. “I was thinking a lot about comfortability and vulnerability; existing unapologetically in your own space. The outside world is chaotic and hard, and I think people can consider trying to be softer.”
Dries Van Noten’s Natural Walk on the Wild Side for Spring/Summer 2025
Photo by Go Runway, courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
Photo by Go Runway, courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
“By Nature” was the opulent and organic sentiment cascading through Dries Van Noten’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Grounded in the maison’s perceptive and pioneering savoir-faire, finely crafted garments enhanced by gossamer-like floral patterns and embroideries spoke to verdant growth and opportunity. In watercolor hues of lime green, orange, and turquoise, echoing the brand’s iconic Spring/Summer 1997 runway, an array of intoxicating prints were introduced in lavish fabrics. Orchids and exotic flowers merged with alluring animal motifs, while the drapery of jacquard and silk georgette made way for beaming satin edged in lace detail. Sleek shoes with crystalline heels or spellbinding corsetry lacing invited a walk on the wild side, naturally, with Dries Van Noten.
Balmain Reinvigorates 21st Century Masterpieces
Courtesy of Balmain.
Courtesy of Balmain.
Olivier Rousteing, Creative Director of Balmain, reveled in the maison’s 21st century masterpieces for Spring/Summer 2025, building from legendary looks to present stimulating garments with rigorous attention to form, style, and structure. The recognizable angle of hips and widening of shoulders was infused into fresh jacket and skirt combos, set off with streamlined trouser boots. In a luxurious ode to portraiture, hyper-realistic imagery of stunning visages came forth out of hypnotic pearl patterns set upon dresses, jackets, and more. The house’s proficient hand at embroidery was placed on full display, as was an adoration of timeless tweed. The new Anthem bag, gathered to perfection with a sweeping ceinture, deftly reflects Monsieur Balmain’s mid-century looks, fit with nimble, nipped-in waistlines for commanding female energy.
Courrèges Encourages “Repetition, Revolution, and Renewal”
Courtesy of Courrèges.
Courtesy of Courrèges.
The lyricism of a Möbius band highly informed the languid give and take of Courrèges’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection. “Become limitless” was the message seemingly humming through new shapes which encouraged a return to primal body language. Conjuring 60 years of ardent know-how at the captivating fashion house, Creative Director Nicolas Di Felice began with the 1962 Haute Couture cape, evolving each piece into seamless works of modern art. Beguiling coats were fashioned as protective leather or neoprene cocoons, exploratory jersey dresses rose and fell with humanity, and the latest iteration of the Holy Bag was an airy and gentle accompaniment.
Cecilie Bahnsen Unearths “The Crux” for Paris Fashion Week
Courtesy of Cecilie Bahnsen.
Courtesy of Cecilie Bahnsen.
“The Crux” conveyed the awe-inspiring perseverance of mountain climbers atop Mother Nature’s grandeur for Cecilie Bahnsen’s Spring/Summer 2025 catwalk. Alongside a shining new partnership with The North Face, as well as an enduring collaboration with Asics, the fashion house invited Japanese artist Takashi Homma to immerse guests in a live performance on the runway. The ever-inspiring mantra of North Face, “Never Stop Exploring,” was a match made in heaven with Homma’s soaring yet minimalist style. Collaged with a stream of beautiful blue mountain photography, Bahnsen welcomed professional rock climbers such as Solenne Piret and Brooke Raboutou to join models donning dusk-till-dawn couture-inspired garments. Ethereal fabrics in earthy green, sparkling onyx, and snow white shined light on skeletal flower embellishments, with sequined dresses, billowing windbreakers, and the trademark baby doll skirt compelling us to climb every mountain, Cecilie Bahnsen style.
Chloé Liberates “The Freedom Collection” for Summer 2025
Courtesy of Chloé.
Courtesy of Chloé.
Chloé Creative Director Chemena Kamali reinforced the maison as a guiding light for female greatness on the Summer 2025 runway. “The Freedom Collection” painted a vivid picture of contemporary passions through joyously buoyant garments, decorated with confident airs of lace and leather. Goddesses turning their faces to the sun, in love-worn fabrics of ribbed cotton jersey and Habotai silk, commenced the angelic guide. Like a creamy cocktail, pastel lime, apricot, and mint, melted into lavender, blue, and blush, unfolding into fragrant rose and peony prints before our very eyes. The house’s playful bloomers of the 1970s-inspired storybook lingerie looks, with graciously gathered jackets, crocheted bracelet bags, and jelly shoes predicting romantic future escapes for divine self-discovery.
