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MFW FW19: Missoni, Agnona, Marni, and Trussardi

Pearl Fontaine

25 February 2019

With Milan Fashion Week still under way, we’re sharing what we loved from the Fall/Winter 2019 collections presented recently by Missoni, Agnona, Marni, and Trussardi.

Missoni’s iconic knits returned for the Fall/Winter 2019 season, presented washed in the blue light of a chroma key. Acting as a gateway into the six-decade history of the brand, the new collection highlights the long, lean, liquid volumes of the 1970s through a series of capes, jumpsuits, high waistlines, and flowing hems. Featuring a wide variety of hues like mustard, lavender, oranges, and blues, the palette was reminiscent of the colors one might find in a vintage edition of Vogue and accompanies several prints and color-blocking patterns. Some standout looks included the golden jumpsuit worn with a nude knitted shirt and blue hat, the printed pant suit with the detached ruffled collar, and the sparkly beige jumpsuit with the floor-length purple overlay.

Breaking the traditional rules of dress, Agnona applied an elevated attitude to grunge style and sportswear cuts, presenting a collection of slouchy formality. Influenced by Anni Albers’ textile studies, the brand included tactile fabrics and materials like bias-cut wool, cotton Leno and Platino tweed in cashmere, and wool updated from the Agnona’s original 1978 cloth to imagine garments like sharp-shouldered jackets with leather lapels, blanket-soft floor-length cardigans, and wide legged trousers. Reminiscent of the laid back style prevalent in the 1990s, the collection included elements like plaid shirts and jackets, slouchy beanies, and relaxed silhouettes styled with ample layering. The floral slip dress with the plaid blazer, the icy gray dress and cropped cardigan worn over matching pants with socks and sandals, and the thick knit sweater with the matching hat and scarf, worn over printed pants with lace-up leather boots especially caught our eye.

In Marni explored the meeting point between the eroticism of body language and the perplexing plan of neuro-connections in the collection “Neuroerotik”  by doing away with respectability and censorship. The house created a fantaerotic escape game, where each audience member enlisted as a player simply by being present—a game of the mind where each viewer was dared to think what they wished, following hormonal impulses and pushing aside formalities. Through a palette of sybaritic red, glossy black, silky white, and entrancing pink, gender boundaries were broke, and tradition was pushed aside as chains wrapped the torsos and necks of the models, accompanying leather overcoats, plaid dresses, and snakeskin skirts. Highlights included a flowing white dress with the chain detailed bodice, a black coat layered on top of a printed shirt and dress, styled with black lipstick, and a pleated plaid and red dress worn with red leather boots.

Along with its Fall/Winter 2019 collection, Trussardi debuted Archive+Now, a multi-phase project delving into the brand’s historical archives through a series of installations, videos, and images. For it, creative personalities Giulia and Camilla Venturini were captured by photographer Hanna Moon in the house’s 17th century Villa Trussardi, where they wore the season’s new designs—including pieces like a leather jacket and matching pants, loosely tailored blazers in cream and turquoise, and a cherry red leather jumpsuit worn with white heeled boots. The photographs complemented last week’s presentation, which included an interpretation of the Trussardi archives next to pieces and accessories from the new collection, curated and modeled by the Venturini sisters.

 

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Ahead of the week of Milan Design Week, we’re introducing new collections and immersive exhibitions by internationally renowned design brands.
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Go inside the worlds
of Art, Fashion, Design,
and Lifestyle.