This week in Milan, fashion houses are sharing their latest menswear designs. Here, we’re showing you what’s new for the Fall/Winter 2023 season from Gucci, Missoni, Prada, and more.
Courtesy of Gucci.
The aesthetics of improvisation is a concept that permeated Gucci’s first collection since the departure of Creative Director Alexandro Michele, underscoring the idea that garments can and should adapt to fit the wearer’s taste and not the other way around. Introducing its menswear designs for the Fall/Winter 2023 season, the maison’s new direction brought us less opulent extravagance than its recent collections, instead opting for an ever-so-slightly understated approach to menswear with a genderless feel. There were roomy suiting with a mix-and-match attitude, skinny pants and slouchy boots with legwarmers, jointed suiting with detachable pants and sleeves with ample options for styling, and long skirts paired with collared polos or other wardrobe archetypes. Some of our favorite looks included a roomy utility suit in monogrammed lacquered canvas, high-waisted denim sailor’s pants with a silken puffy bomber, and a look composed of a blue double-breasted blazer with slouchy creased trousers and snakeskin boots and a pink duffle.
Courtesy of Missoni.
Missoni captured timeless comfort for the Fall/Winter 2023 season with a collection accented by pops of color and new takes on iconic prints and patterns. Soft silhouettes yielded pieces like cozy cardigans and outerwear, mohair pullovers, layered knit pieces, and sleek suiting featuring elevated track pants. Through black and neutrals, hues of deep maroon, shades of blue and purple, and pops of red or turquoise, we saw many iterations of zigzagged knits, concise chevrons, and colorful stripes weaving together the finest of threads. Looks we loved included a blue zigzag trousers-and-blazer set worn underneath a denim jacket in an acid wash pattern, a cardigan in a washed-out rainbow of stripes, and a look on the grayscale featuring a striped tee, a fuzzy cardigan, and an overcoat with an abstracted striped graphic paired with black trousers and striped rubber clogs.
Courtesy of Prada.
The Fall/Winter 2023 season saw Prada’s Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada continue to focus on the fundamentals of fashion in their newest menswear designs. While looks were reduced to levels of essential simplicity—no fussy details, minimal layering, and straight-forward styling—the collection toyed with forms that contradicted this approach, like the inclusion of large, boxy blazers with skinny-tailored pants or exaggerated, pillowy outerwear. A varied palette included shades of electric blue, buttery yellow, warm brown, Kelly green, and lavender painting wardrobe essentials like suiting, overcoats, and cardigans, which were often worn open sans shirt—seen on looks like a yellow cardigan with deep green trousers, black glossy loafers, and a leather tote, or a series of puffer garments imagined with no details or hardware.
Courtesy of Fendi.
Fendi’s sartorial exploration for the Fall/Winter 2023 season brought to mind words like cozy, sensual, and cool. Imagined in the hues expected of a professional’s wardrobe (navy, gray, black, and brown) experiments in form and everyday opulence brought exciting takes on styles not often seen in the menswear oeuvre. Joining classics like tailored trousers, double-breasted silhouettes, and leather bombers, we saw long, wrap sweaters, one-shouldered knits, pants with skirted overlays, and draped capes and cloaks. Each look was styled carefully with caps, bags, and other accessories, and looks featured details and embellishments like glittering crystals, monogram prints, silk lapels, and other aspects that set them apart from your average office wardrobe. Standout looks included a soft gray sweater with a fringed cape, paired with leather pants and a hardware-detailed leather waist bag, a classic oxford button-up with a missing sleeve worn tucked into belted pants, and an all-gray ensemble featuring a sparkling sequined suit with a flowy waterfall hem on the jacket.
Courtesy of Tod’s.
The essence of Italian style was everpresent in Tod’s Fall/Winter 2023 debuts, captured in a film at the picturesque Villa Necchi. Imagined in warm neutrals, Tod’s introduced new takes on its signature leather styles, weather-appropriate knits, and relaxed sartorial offerings—all conceived for functionality in the wardrobe of the contemporary wearer. There were turtleneck sweaters layered with matching leather sets, casual bombers upgraded with tailoring and sophisticated leather footwear, and other ensembles that blended sartorial sportswear with a metropolitan allure. Key styles of the collection included the leather Pash jacket, a take on the W.G. shoe with a padded effect, and a series of shirt jackets in hand-woven suede.
