New York Fashion Week is back in the Big Apple, and we’re sharing our highlights from the Fall/Winter 2022 presentations. Below, you’ll find details on not-miss shows, including presentations by Markarian, Christian Siriano, Altuzarra, and more.
At The Prince George Ballroom in Flatiron, Markarian presented its latest ready-to-wear collection immersed in a setting adorned with luxuriously draped curtains and grandiose florals by Putnam & Putnam. The presentation shined light on the nature of bespoke creations—from classic silhouettes made personal to intimate experiences you embrace at an atelier. Through 39 looks, the brand’s founder and designer Alexandra O’Neill wowed the crowd with loos inspired by the Jazz Age. Signature for Markarian were it dresses, both voluminous and refined, accessorized with an array of standout pieces, like Swarovski crystal-covered clutches, custom floral-engraved belts, and the brand’s first-ever shoe collection with Maria Luca. Boots, lace-up sandals, and slingbacks caught our eye in luxe materials—from suede to brocade and satin. Last but certainly not least, sparkling from the profile, were violette veils and feather combs by Gigi Burris Milliner and jewelry created in partnership with Ciner, including tassel earrings, neckless of jade, ruby, and turquoise.
Christian Siriano brought guests to the Empire State Building for his latest presentation, “Victorian Matrix,” rooted in his ever-present focus of inclusivity and range. VIPs in the front row—from Drew Barrymore and Susan Sarandon to Alicia Silverstone—enjoyed a collection full of shapely silhouettes and exaggerated details. The designer relied on his innate understanding of cut and shape, allowing dresses to be worn by the models and not the other way around. An off-the-shoulder black velvet corset dress featuring a small peek-a-boo cutout was trimmed with a large all-around pouf detailing; dresses hugged the body with an hourglass shape centered on the front in another color; and gowns with matching hooded evening shawls trailed down the runway. Fall/Winter 2022 also saw a few new collaborations for Siriano, including a partnership with Gloria Vanderbilt for denim and the placement of Luminous Diamonds jewelry on models.
For the season, the designer Joseph Altuzarra was inspired by the ocean. Mysteries of an underwater world created fantastical ideas for new creations, emblematic of an adventurous world. At the Woolworth Building show, thick rib knits, mother-of-pearl fastenings, dresses dripping in sequins, and details—like mother of pearl fastenings and weathered coin embellishments—all nodded to life on a rugged coastline. Special for the collection, as well, was the introduction of a textural rug motif inspired by handwoven Moroccan Berber rugs. Shibori tie-dye pieces, an Altuzarra signature print, are reworked in collaboration with Japanese artisans; a vegan leather kilt skirt is seen, harking back to the designer’s trip to the Scottish Highlands; and eveningwear pulls at the heartstrings of the 1920s, with pleated dresses, geometric prints, and shell-inspired motifs aplenty.
Per usual, Christian Cowan wanted to throw a fashionable party, decking his nightlife girls out in eye-catching dresses, accessories, and atmospheres. Held at the One World Trade Center Observatory, models paraded among the sparkle of the city, matching its flickers with Preciosa crystal trimmed and studded gowns, bold silhouettes, and sky-high heels and manicures. Feathers, sequins, and glitter was not amiss, with plenty to go around. For the fun line, Cowan also worked with the Italian jewelry designer angostura to create sculpture pieces that wrapped fingers and ears, as well as around the head and body. After the show, Cowan invited his friends and family to a party beyond the catwalk at The Times Square EDITION.
Eckhaus Latta continued its dedication to breaking gender stereotype barriers, presenting a gender-fluid line of pieces that payed homage to support, love, and the future. Shimmering, sheer low-cut dresses were worn over jeans by men, paired with suede boots; an array of colors and fabrics were paired together on a woman, with knits, shearling, and fuzzy shoes catching out attention; and cut-outs on top and pants were held together by threads woven through careful lace cages. For Eckhaus Latta, Fall/Winter 2022 is all about freedom and expression.