New York Fashion Week is upon us, and we’re bringing you the latest from the Spring/Summer 2023 collections of Adam Lippes, Batsheva, LaQuan Smith, Willy Chavarria, and Maisie Wilen.
Adam Lippes’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection was steeped in the abundant Siwa Oasis of the Sahara Desert. Lotus blossoms, jasmine, and poppies, among other flowers native to Egypt, were embroidered on fine cotton poplin. The detailed work was made in collaboration with Threads of Hope, a Cairo-based organization employing marginalized Egyptian women and refugees. Sensuous sportswear took form in slouched menswear shapes, tailored knits, and flowing, pleated skirts. Elegant hats and understated shoes created with Esenshel and Manolo Blahnik respectively set the sophisticated yet adventuresome tone of every look.
The thoroughly modern take on Victorian and Prairie sensibilities took center stage in Batsheva’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Black and white dresses, rompers, and trousers, were embellished with delicate and romantic patterns of hearts, bows, and stars. Ruffles, puffed sleeves, and midriff-baring tops were sugar coated in mint green, violet, and pale pink. Embroidered and sparkling knit sweaters were paired with cheeky bloomers and shimmering mary jane platforms. The party continued with whimsical takes on the suit—eye-popping in shining red, with polka dots, neckties, and provocative sheer gloves. Amethyst and gold dresses wrapped the body like a confection, intricately draped and pleated from thigh to ankle. A final white gown was made heavenly with a feathered halo-like headpiece.
The glorious atmosphere of Morocco—fiery spices in the air, vivid colors in the markets, the poetry of motion and emotion—deeply inspired LaQuan Smith’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection. The palette was set aflame in blazing pink, yellow, violet, and orange. Softness of skin was set off by hip-bearing mini-skirts and low-slung sequin trousers. Sheer scarves and caftans caressed the body from head to toe, leaving lavender and cobalt memories in its wake. Romance took flight in the memorable platinum-hued wing-shaped bralette and accompanying draped skirt. Sumptuous jackets were shearling and raincoat-inspired. Intricate, sleeveless overalls, in an almost holographic teal, was both romantic and fearless. Cleopatra would surely approve.
A pure light shone through the stained glass windows of the legendary Marble Collegiate Church in Manhattan, and onto the Willy Chavarria Spring/Summer 2023 collection. A polished and exuberant take on American fashion, the show, titled “Please Rise,” was a dramatic tale of the triumph of good over evil. Collaborations with iconic brands Pro Club, FB County, and Dickies, produced dynamic statements in made-to-order luxury wear in tropical weight mohair and silk-wool. Exaggerated collars, wide-legged pleated chinos, floral embellishments and trains, were fused together in elegant and majestic styles. Cropped trousers paired with double-breasted jackets and short, puff-sleeved shirts invoked the masculine, the feminine, and the transcendent.
Maisie Wilen embraced all things digital with its cutting-edge Spring/Summer 2023 collection. In an embodiment of computer-generated imagery, special-effects, and motion capture processes, the show, set against a greenscreen, explored fluidity and technology in all its forms. Motion-capture symbols and dots, as well as alien-like faces, were printed in repeating patterns onto garments. The brand’s inaugural men’s collection pulled from the women’s all time favorites—namely the Perforated Turtleneck and Muscle Beach Tank. Sweaters, shorts, and ties spoke of comfort, camp, and signature style. Day wear evolved into evening wear, with edgy gowns and mini dresses. Unisex and size-inclusive pieces ushered in a bright new world—come one, come all.