This week in Paris, brands are presenting their latest menswear collections for the Fall/Winter 2022 season. Here, we’re sharing details on our favorite new collections by names like Acne Studios, Rhude, Fumito Ganryu, and more.
Courtesy of Acne Studios.
In Acne Studios’s Fall/Winter 2022 menswear debuts, a creative, nomadic lifestyle was embraced through an earthen palette, varied textures, and a patchwork attitude. Respect for menswear traditions became a ground on which they could either be embraced or completely ignored, bringing forth a suite of memorable looks playing with a juxtaposition of high-low attitudes. Drawing reference from Creative Director Jonny Johansson’s Swedish roots, the garments harnessed the evolution of clothing seen across communities, melding together unexpected pairings like leather and sequins, velvet and nylon, or traditionally utilitarian garments (like waders and inclement weather gear) that were reimagined for aesthetic purposes. A few standout ensembles included a nylon tuxedo-style jacket with a denim collar, a textured cummerbund, and over-the-knee leather boots; a layered look comprised of a velvet tunic, printed bell-bottoms, a bomber jacket in multiple fabrications, and fibrously woven athletic shoes; and a glittering blouse in teal, paired with a woven bib and a pair of tall leather wading boots that belted around the waist.
Courtesy of Rhude.
An artful reimagining of the classic businessmen’s wardrobe describes Rhude’s fall/winter 2022 collection, “Bull Market.” Starting with the foundation of the 1980s power suit worn by Wall Street stockbrokers, creative director Rhuigi Villaseñor took the upcoming season as an opportunity to dive into notions of modern luxury, finding inspiration in figures like the character Gordon Gekko along the way. The collection video gave us undeniable cool kid vibes through its smooth jazz soundtrack and edgy styling choices (think shades and leather paired with tailored suiting), with a memorable impression that this is the way to dress for success. Crafted through a partnership with the Los Angeles-based tailor Denis Frison, the collection featured several takes on the double-breasted suit, styles like a pinstripe pairing with pajama piping, and gorgeous statement outerwear styles. A few of the most memorable ensembles included a sweats-and-hoodie pairing elevated through monochromatic styling, a tailored overcoat, and a knit tied around the shoulders; a suit in charcoal pinstripes worn sans tie, with a slouchy moto-style jacket; and an all-over leather look featuring a trench with a furry red collar and matching pants with a racing stripe down the side.
Courtesy of Fumito Ganryu.
Surrounding the idea of homeostasis, Fumito Ganryu focused on comfort in its silhouettes and fabrications for the upcoming season. While considering the need to maintain balance in transitional times, the house left no event unthought of, presenting a suite of cozy looks suitable for leisure, and for when a slightly more elevated aesthetic is required. The most captivating aspect was the play on volume, intermingling a mixture of pants styles (like tight spandex, drop-crotch joggers, and ultra-wide-legged jeans) and tops, which included swinging knits, oversized hoodies and button-ups, blazers, and voluminous puffer jackets. Our favorite looks included the all-black blanket coat with the gator detail, styled for ultimate cold-weather comfort with spandex and black lace-up boots, an amply cut striped button-up and parachute pants; and an iridescent purple quilted blazer, styled with leggings and shiny silver sneakers.
Courtesy of A-COLD-WALL*.
Samuel Ross’s A-COLD-WALL* aimed to capture the nature of humanity through works of wearable art for the fall/winter 2022 season. Embracing the ethos that the artist’s mind is best left free to follow its emotions, the resulting collection was presented in moody, mysterious, and emotive images that were just as intriguing as the garments themselves. Styled with details like silver painted hands and faces, the prints, lines, and textures of the designs gave the impression that they could have been crafted from preexisting artworks. There were structured styles like sculptural, drawstring pants and an avant-garde top that left parts of the wearer’s torso bare. Hoodies and joggers were updated with patches of print and color, sections of brightly painted opposing tones, and styling choices that warranted a second look—like a pair of wide-legged jeans and a layered hoodie look with a supersized metallic tote bag, or a pair of athleisure pants with a bungee detail and sneakers, worn underneath a rain poncho that covered the face with mesh.
Courtesy of Sulvam.
Sulvam’s fall/winter 2022 collection was centered around draped, unconventional takes on quintessential garments, imagined in classic fabrications like gabardine, houndstooth, and Furano wool. Genderless silhouettes like skirts, fluid trouser cuts, cropped sweaters, and long overcoats were seen throughout the collection, paired with pieces found in an archetypal office wardrobe, like button-up shirts, ties, and sports coats—though each style bore a twist you’ve not likely seen on your daily commute. Lining fabric became a detail meant to be spotted, whether poking out from hemlines, used as a statement on pockets, or revealed by strategically placed slits in outerwear styles. A play on length variation and elements of subtle asymmetry added character to otherwise simplistic styles—like a cropped moto coat, statement pockets placed crookedly on an overcoat, or shirts left hanging longer than that jackets under which they’re layered. Some of our favorite ensembles included an ankle-length skirt and blazer pairing, styled with sleek leather loafers and a high-necked blouse; and a pair of palazzo pants in green, belted at the waist and styled with an off-the-shoulder knit.
