Paris Men’s Fashion Week has just come to an end, so we’re looking back on the Fall/Winter 2022 collections presented by names like Issey Miyake, Jil Sander, Rick Owens, and more.
Courtesy of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake.
Homme Plissé Issey Miyake’s Fall/Winter 2022 debut, “A Work of Arc,” considered the construction of a tent as a parallel to clothes making, using the analogy as the foundation of a sartorial experiment. Stemming from this exploration, the house played with structured shapes, folding techniques, and, unsurprisingly, new approaches to pleating when creating its latest designs. Captured in a video work by Kyotaro Hayashi, the sculptural garments were first seen in a succession of scenes that highlighted the detailed nature of each piece. We saw new styles imagined in bright, lively organic hues like the bow garments, looking at the lines of a tarp stretched across a tent; multiple lengths of the padded frame coat; and the printed Lantern pieces, which featured a play on light and dark in their lava lamp-reminiscent markings.
Courtesy of Jil Sander.
Comfort and self-confidence were pillars on which Jil Sander’s Fall/Winter 2022 debuts were conceived. As is always the maison’s mission, the garments were crafted to present each wearer with tools by which they can be perceived in the way they want to be seen. Refined materializations like wools and silks were the basis for roomy and contemporary takes on uniform-inspired garments and wintery staples in a palette of neutrals, accented with added pops of orange, green, and animal prints. There were trenches and blazers, thick knits, and straight-legged trousers, each updated with thoughtful details like lace appliques, leather lapels, rolled scarves in place of belts, and cowled necklines. Touching on our varied personalities and differences, the collection also featured a suite of gestural zodiac illustrations, which were seen across shirts, coats, silk scarves, and even a workman’s jumpsuit.
Courtesy of Isabel Marant.
Isabel Marant embraced a nonchalant 1990s grunge aesthetic for its Fall/Winter 2022 menswear designs. Looking to the fashion choices of the decade’s legacies, the collection featured staples like baggy silhouettes, washed denim, layered styling, and a varied palette of hues and prints. Cold weather garments like oversized parkas, shearling patchworks, and roomy windbreakers were seen worn with parings of acid wash cargos, retro striped “Marant” jerseys, classic khakis, patterned sweaters, and pieces featuring multiple prints. Looks were styled with footwear like a men’s take on the house’s iconic wedged Balskee sneaker, the Bumkeeh, along with pieces like bucket hats, puffy suede ankle boots, and jackets tied around the waist.
Courtesy of Rick Owens.
Presented at the Palais de Tokyo, the daring gaze of Rick Owens brought us for the Fall/Winter 2022 season a collection meant to indulge the id. Exaggerate volumes, inventive shapes, and futuristic drapery brought us cozy duvet coats, oversized sartorial shapes, and convertible garments like the cape-or-trench Drella coat. Bold hues set the mood for even bolder designs, embracing the need to take up space through heavily layered looks—made from styles like fuzzy hooded vests that zipped up the fac, neon parkas with cascading shearling trims, and the light-seeking hats, which featured singular fluorescent bulbs illuminated on the top of the wearer’s head. Keeping in mind social and environmental responsibilities, the house has crafted these new debuts using certified organic cotton for nearly all of its jerseys and cotton woven garments, as well as utilizing Leather Working Group certified shearlings from a family-owned tannery in Italy.
Photo by Casper Sejersen, courtesy of Dries Van Noten.
Dries Van Noten’s latest collection embodied a dreamy, androgynous attitude that pulled from the rebellious glamor of figures like David Bowie, Jean-Michel Basquiat, and Kurt Cobain. Viewers were given the impression that dressing for comfort and pleasure meant that rules must be broken, in imagery captured by Casper Sejersen in a sensual moment within a historic Parisian mansion. That was reinforced through styles like skirts and slip dresses, pajama-reminiscent garments, and tailoring that played with kimono details, soft padding, and unconventional colors (like a tuxedo in a vivid pink). In addition to the phrase “DREAM BABY DREAM,” which was seen throughout the presentation video and as a graphic, the collection featured varied hues and fabrications, which supplied a textural palette for abundant prints and detailing, like hibiscus flowers, splashed tie-dyes, hand-painted embellishments, glass beading, sequins, and embroideries.
