With Paris Men’s Fashion Week at a close, we’re taking a look back at the Spring/Summer 2022 collections from Hermès, Jil Sander, Rick Owens, and more.
Courtesy of Hermès.
A courtyard outfitted with an installation of larger-than-life detail photographs—of both the collection and its presentation space—set the scene for Hermès’s Spring/Summer 2022 menswear debut. Reinventing the wardrobe in search of a sense of lightness, freedom, and relaxation, the house focused on fabrications to carry these qualities when applied to elegant, flexible silhouettes. We felt notions of a reclaimed reality in the use of optimistic prints and hues, seen across looks like a knit sweater and cardigan in sunset hues, worn with long shorts and tan Chelsea boots; a lightweight duster in a white grid pattern, styled with simple khaki trousers and high-top sneakers; and a collared shirt in yellow floral worn with white trousers and boots.
Courtesy of Jil Sander.
Jil Sander’s latest menswear collection brought to mind terms like clarity, lightness, and autonomy—ideas which relatable to us all as hopes remain set for an end to global unrest. Form and materials were key focuses of the Spring/Summer 2022 season, employing straight lines and voluminous shapes synonymous to Japanese design, paired with textiles in uplifting colors—like soft yellow, pale blue, lilac, sage, and tobacco—including tactile pairings of canvas and suede, lightweight, structured wool, and easy-moving linen or overdyed cotton. Standout looks included a green ensemble pairing a button-up and pants, with sneakers, a cap, and a large leather tote; a coat in textured maroon knit styled with an orange kerchief and silky trousers tucked into tall, lace-up combat boots; and a look in all-over bubblegum pink with a crocheted shoulder bag.
Courtesy of OWENSCORP.
Livestreaming its latest designs from the Venezia Lido Beach, Rick Owens’s Spring/Summer 2022 menswear collection “Fogachine” took on a softened gaze through which it explored ideas of hedonism. Looks in black, white, and neutral tones glided along a foggy shoreline, juxtaposing elements of glamor with responsibility and thoughtfulness. The house’s ample use of volume and material returned in long, flowing silhouettes, pairings of lightweight layers, and bold tailoring reminiscent of football padding. Styled with futuristic accessories like goggle lenses, industrial jewelry, and platform boots, highlight looks included a dress-like garment in black with a sheer veil floating behind; a cropped jacket in white styled with sneakers, shorts, and a gauzy tunic; and an ensemble pairing a tank top with a sheer vest and orange rubber boots.
Courtesy of Thom Browne.
While Thom Browne will debut its entire Spring/Summer 2022 collection during New York Fashion Week in September, the house geared up viewers for the upcoming release with a vibrant film work, Looking Forward to Tomorrow. Offering a preview of the new collection in action, the video (captured in surreally beautiful settings across New Mexico’s flatlands) followed the story of a runner who trains from dusk to dawn, incorporating looks like a pleated kilt-and-jacket in white, worn with a matching boater hat and red leather backpack.
Courtesy of Casablanca.
Titled “Masao San,” Casablanca’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection honors friendship, exploration, and intimate journeys, named for a personal friend of designer Charaf Tajer. Captured by the videographer Natalie Canguilhem in a set looking to Japanese technology advertising from the 1990s, the technicolor designs drew from the aesthetics of the Memphis Milano movement in its shapes and palette. There were retro silhouettes updated with avant-garde elements, like bell-bottom trousers, polo shirts 1970s feel, and blazers with squiggly-cut lapels. Imagined in a suite of silks, funky prints, and transparent gradient fabrications, looks were styled with chunky jewelry, statement sunglasses, and retro hairstyles—including our favorites, like a trench in glossy, textured yellow, worn with pale mint trousers and a logo sweater; or a look pairing red pleated pants with a collared knit top and a quilted jacket that looked like a sky over water.
