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Cartier Begins Again with Latest High Jewelry Collection

Under the direction of Jacqueline Karachi, Cartier offers a stunning new high jewelry collection aptly titled “Le Voyage Recommencé.” Geometry, nature, volume, and of course the iconic panther are revisited and reimagined anew.

Olivia Ferrucci

31 January 2024

With its newest high jewelry collection, Cartier takes its most iconic symbols and subverts them, reinventing the wheel—if the wheel was made of diamonds, that is. It is rather fitting, then, that this assortment of fine jewelry pieces is the third chapter of a collection titled “Le Voyage Recommencé.” 

Cartier High Jewelry

Courtesy of Cartier.

Perhaps Cartier’s sources are inexhaustible because they are so timeless. One piece, the Yfalos Necklace, is quite clearly a reimagining of the ocean. The necklace features two turquoise cabochons, one azure blue and the other streaked with brown veins—as if to simultaneously suggest both clear waters and the dark depths of the ocean. Accompanied by a set of ribbed coral beads, turquoise beads, and bright emeralds, this piece leaves no doubt to its aquatic ties.

The Cartier Panther Makes a Triumphant Return

Cartier High Jewelry

Courtesy of Cartier.

The fiercely elegant panther has been part of the Cartier menagerie since 1914, and here, it makes a triumphant return. In the lush, acid-colored Panthère Confiante Necklace, a glittering panther resplendent with copious diamonds overlooks a 26.52-carat cabochon peridot. The green-red-black chromatic trio has been a mainstay of Cartier designs over the last century, and here, classic iconographies are combined to create a design that is rich, glittering, and refreshing.

Cartier High Jewelry

Courtesy of Cartier.

Geometry is yet another focus of the maison, and this collection seems particularly interested in toying with symmetry. The Spina Necklace alternates between sapphires and diamonds, yielding a piece of jewelry that is both technically masterful and aesthetically opulent. At its center are two 4.56-carat diamonds and a 29.16-carat Ceylon sapphire sure to leave viewers transfixed. Remarkably, the necklace can be turned upside down and worn as a tiara—a function certainly befitting of this regal, striking piece. Its comfort when worn is a true testament to Cartier’s rigorous standards and the skill of its designers. This jewelry undulates over the skin when worn, too, as if to suggest the suppleness of fabric.

Cartier Pushes the Boundaries of High Jewelry

Cartier High Jewelry

Courtesy of Cartier.

The Lerro Necklace continues Cartier’s effort to play with patterns. Two zig-zagging lines of monochrome diamonds suggest a kind of sharp, staccato movement, drawing the viewer’s eye to three octagonal Colombian diamonds totaling 5.62 carats at the necklace’s center. This is a piece that feels both full and open, with small tapered diamonds adding depth to a necklace that already feels replete with structure.

“Working with lines, volumes, colour palettes, inspiration from nature and world cultures,” said Director of High Jewellery Creation Jacqueline Karachi. “We explore so many territories to push the boundaries of creation and discover new horizons. Like a journey that is repeated over and over again, continually drawing on the inexhaustible sources of Cartier inspiration.”

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Minjung Kim

THE SPRING ARTIST ISSUE
2023

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Here, we offer a closer look at the newest—and finest—high Jewelry pieces from Tiffany & Co, De Beers, and Gucci.
This week, Louis Vuitton presented its latest high jewelry collection, the second iteration of "Deep Time," by Francesca Amfitheatrof.

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Go inside the worlds
of Art, Fashion, Design,
and Lifestyle.