MFW SS20: Brunello Cucinelli, Santoni, Sergio Rossi, and Emilio Pucci

Santoni’s latest women’s collection is a chic new construct on the brand’s DNA. With distinct, masculine shapes as its base, feminine materials and details were then added for sophisticated charm. At the Monte Napoleone boutique in Milan, Mr. Santoni was there to debut the new collection. Displayed atop glass, wood, and metal shelves, the new pieces popped for their reinterpreted shapes—including loafers, lace-up shoes, ankle boots, and slippers in five neutral hues. The color palette was a nod to the recently restyled boutique, as its chromatic shades. Special for the occasion, as well, were two new shoes reimagined from the Fall/Winter 2019 collection, in orange and light blue, in a “See Now, Buy Now” shopping exclusive—available online and at that specific store during Milan Design Week only.

Emilio Pucci presented a colorful new collection, tugging on the aristocratic spirit strings of Marquess Emilio Pucci. Sporty, stretchy kaleidoscopic-printed leggings from the 1960s were revisited—elaborated in an array of top, trouser, and dress designs. For movement, without losing its sensuality, we see a collection of pieces that are either fitted or free flowing, paired with luxurious silk turbans. The brand’s classic Vivara print is reinterpreted on new bonded viscose slip dresses; kaftans are bright and bold; printed cut-out appliques adorn shirtdresses in a new way; and tuxedos are remade as ultra-feminine jumpsuits, with the glamour of eveningwear. We also caught eye of the new Dora bag—a mix of materials, colors, and prints.

Sergio Rossi’s new collection was presented in its white Milanese boutique, covered from top to bottom in the brand’s name in black letters. New styles were greatly inspired by the 1990s, accentuated by clean lines and architectural shapes. Shades of dragon fruit and sapphire were seen; a graphic Sergio Rossi logo from the 1969 as used as a sculptural heel; and pointed-toe pumps, sleek heels, and effortless mules were seen created in laminated leather (sometimes printed with a python motif) and silver detailing. Velcro sneakers also keep the logo-centric designs alive, with an “S” and “R” appearing on the straps.

Against a natural backdrop, and below a woven installation, Brunello Cucinelli unveiled its latest collection entitled “Natural Essence.” Sophisticated pieces, in harmony with one another, were seen making up full looks of soft shades. For all knitwear pieces, outwear jackets and shirts, trousers and skirts, dresses and matching sets, we saw a palette of delicate neutrals. Lived-in textures that appear to be air-dried make up the collection—from cashmere and rattan fibers to lightweight wool and airy silk. Woven and perforated pieces are modern and informal, evoking a sense of sophisticated ease. Authenticity for the pieces was solidified by traditional patterns, like pinstripes and nautical stripes. Other classic shapes were revisited in new ways—like Bermuda shorts in leather. Handbags stay geometric and minimal for reserved allure; and footwear debuts lightweight runners.