Milan Fashion Week FW21: Fendi, Prada, Moschino, and Emporio Armani

Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection honored the five Fendi sisters, paying tribute to their signature styles and the house’s codes. A return of the F-shaped glass vitrines used in its most recent couture presentation saw a marbled floor setting the stage for enclosures of columns, busts, and other objects that appeared like artifacts from a museum. Designer Kim Jones took into consideration ideas like Silvia Venturini Fendi’s daily uniform, Karl Lagerfeld’s contributions to the house (in particular the Karligraphy monogram and the FENDI First shoe), and other mainstays of Italian elegance, updating them with a fresh perspective that resulted in feminine designs that infused a sense of luxury into the every day. Imagined in a palette of neutrals, standout designs included a pair of high-waisted trousers and a cropped blouse in pearly silk; a striped shirt dress with an asymmetric detail; and a selection of fur coats—like a long tan coat with a dainty belt at the waist.

Returning to the Rem Koolhaas-created “non-spaces” seen last month during the Milan menswear shows, Prada introduced us to “Possible Feelings II: Transmute” for its Fall/Winter 2021 womenswear collection. With themes of change, transformation, and possibilities as a starting point, the house set out on an exploration of the space between opposites like simplicity and complexity, limitation and release, and elegance and practicality. Silhouettes changed shape, as utilitarian staples were reimagined in bright colors, and a vibrant energy was seen executed through elements like popping prints and intermingled textures. Looks we loved included an acid green coat worn over a forest-hued button-up paired with powder blue boot, a sequined dress with a fur stole featuring a large floral printed lining, and a knitted sweater dress paired with a psychedelic patterned turtleneck in black and purple.

The debut of Moschino’s collection “Jungle Red” presented itself as a show within a show, wherein a gathering of women in retro garb took their seats before a stage in preparation for a video work referencing George Cukor’s 1939 film The Women. The curtains raised revealing, in turn, a selection of settings and designs to match. In a cityscape, we saw looks playing with pinstripes and business suiting. An illustrated setting depicting rolling hills in the countryside brought forth creations like potato sack-printed dresses and summer gingham suits complete with windmill hairpieces. Then, a museum setting revealed models creating living paintings, before a jungle scenario revealed animal-centric garments and pieces taking cues from safari wear. In a twist, the theater itself became the final setting and audience members (like Winnie Harlow, Lily Aldridge,and Dita Von Teese) began strutting its aisles in looks worthy of a 1940s Hollywood red carpet experience—like a fitted gown in red with sparkling black hearts, which ended the presentation with a cheeky surprise.

Invigorated elegance is a term that came to mind when viewing Emporio Armani’s Fall/Winter 2021 collection. A selection of elongated silhouettes with references to the house’s own designs from the 1980s was executed with pops of bright color and surprising accessories, like statement chain-and-bauble necklaces, colorful gloves, and neckties with large flowery pom poms. A play on tactile elements brought us combinations like wool and leather, all-over sequins with large, glossy buttons, and velvet with either fur or satin. Standout looks were a striped suit worn open over a long beaded necklace, an iridescent pink-to-red suit reminiscent of a marching band uniform overlayed with a furry black capelet, and a tuxedo mini dress and boots in velvet styled with clear enamel cuffs and opaque stockings.