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With Milan Fashion Week underway, we’re sharing our favorites from the Spring/Summer 2022 collections debuted by Etro, Prada, Tod’s, and Missoni.
Etro’s optimistic collection for the Spring/Summer 2022 was presented in time with a live drum performance by Les Tambours du Bronx. Created for the young generation of enthusiastic, positive thinkers, the kaleidoscopic collection was a celebration of life that combined slick, 1990s-inspired silhouettes with the mystic, psychedelic mood prominent in the prints and details of the 1970s. Elongated cuts like one-shouldered column dresses, lean trousers with high waistlines, and flowy skirts that met the floor were seen in a variety of prints, which included the signature paisley intermingled with stripes, florals, and other decorative motifs. Implementing light, summery layering and ornamental accessories, our favorite looks included a yellow shorts set with a printed button-up, a dress in pink floral with shoulder-sweeping earrings and wrist cuffs, and a look featuring white pants, a cropped blouse with a chain-link overlay, and a lightweight coat and matching bucket hat.
Ideas of seduction and sexuality informed Prada’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection. In a unique digital dialogue, the house presented its latest designs both at Fondazione Prada in Milan and Bund 1 in Shanghai, with two sets of models introducing the same garments, virtually connected through video screens. Within the sleekly modern, screen-filled presentation spaces, we saw looks composed from concepts of deconstruction, recontextualizing the original form of classic pieces to emphasize or expose the wearer’s body. Alluding to the elegance of eveningwear for the everyday, standout ensembles included an oversized biker leather paired with a skirt with a train, pointy-toed mules, and a red handbag; a simple silky A-line silhouette imagined in chartreuse with sleeves, and a version in black without; and a white jacket with elongated sleeves that laced up the front styled over a skirt with a taillike train and green pumps.
Tod’s signature leather and clean tailoring was present in the sophisticated and contemporary sartorial offerings of the season. Imagined in a warm and cheerful palette accompanied by chic neutrals, we saw looks comprised of contrasting elements taking the forefront—like boxy silhouettes with miniature hemlines, knitwear with leather details, and feminine dresses with chunky sandals. While some silhouettes suggested styles we’ve seen before, each was updated in accordance with the house’s singular codes, including mini-length trenches, button-up denim tops that were wrapped with a sash at the waist, and modish trapeze dresses with wide, structured necklines. Looks we loved included a white zip-up mini dress with leather pockets and a moto-buckle collar styled with matching leather sandals and a handbag, a purple mini dress with ruched pleats with a leather collar poking out from underneath, and a green utility jacket with drawstring sleeves paired with loafers featuring a thick wooden platform.
For Alberto Caliri’s debut collection with Missoni, the new Creative Director employed a fresh gaze embracing the maison’s heritage for Spring/Summer 2022. Influences from the late 1990s were paired witha confident audacity and a bourgeois elegance, exalting the female figure like triangle bikinis, barely-there tops that wrapped around the chest, and soft dresses that hugged the body. Knits and motifs synonymous to the brand returned in the form of patchwork textiles and all-over prints (seen on garments like slouchy body-con dresses in zig-zag and lightweight sweaters that fell off the shoulder) and several surprising florals. There was a suite of daring looks treating swimsuits as everyday wear, perfect when paired with a trench coat, loose-fitting metallic trousers, or a flowing top left unbuttoned. Other pieces we loved included a striped tunic in green with black and white flowery trousers, a floor-length boatneck gown in a metallic knit print, and a pair of low-slung jeans worn with an aquamarine top that looked like a bra in the front featuring a train that trailed down to the floor.