With the start of Milan Fashion Week, we’re looking at the Spring/Summer 2022 collections by Fendi, Jil Sander, Brunello Cucinelli, and Roberto Cavalli.
Fendi employed a modern spin on Disco-age glamor for its Spring/Summer 2022 debut, using a hand-sketched logo by the late fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez as a starting point. The season’s sumptuous materials, bold graphics, and striking shapes felt like a night out at Studio 54, encompassing elements like colorful fur, ombre fringe, and all-over lace. There were long, flowy silhouettes—like a chocolate gown in Fendi printed silk or a strapless dress with a psychedelic sunset—and luxe suiting with lean trousers and tops that cinched in the waist. These were accompanied by the occasional mini silhouette styled with items like cropped jackets and tall leather boots, including a pair of suede shearling shorts and a body-con silhouette in a pastel print with colorful patchwork go-go boots.
The contemporary gaze of Jil Sander brought for the upcoming season a suite of subtly powerful looks that embraced ideas of tension and opposition—like feminine and masculine, nocturnal and luminous, or vulnerable and strong. Silhouettes focused on shape and textures, appearing voluminous while remaining lightweight. In a widespread palette of tones from pastels to richer, more earthy tones, the house constructed each garment with a careful attention to detail, including elements like wrapped fabric and drapery, understated fastens, buttons, or gromets, and combinations of sleek and loose. Highlights included a striped dress in blue and white with a high neck and fabric wrapped around to hug the waist, a duster with puffed sleeves and a gathered neck closed over a pearlescent slip and tall white boots, and an oversized blazer with a boxy shape and a teal detail across one shoulder styled with a pair of long striped pants.
Named “Revolutionary Classics,” Brunello Cucinelli harnessed a confident attitude and the concept of dressing for pleasure with its new Spring/Summer 2022 debuts. Intermingling elements of ornate and sportswear, the collection centered fluid garments—like relaxed-fit trousers, loose blouses, and long, lean dresses—styled chromatically and imagined in luxurious colors and textured fabrications. Glittering champagne materializations appeared on pieces like a textured sweater with feathery details and a double-breasted suit in all-over sequins. Other standouts included a silky collared blouse in seafoam green styled with tweed pants with suspenders, and a pairing of trousers, a sweater, and a button-up in ruby, reminding us of the fashion of years gone by.
Roberto Cavalli’s vivacious Spring/Summer 2022 collection was built around two main ideas: natural prints and the party-ready attitude of the early 2000s. A selection of bombshell dress silhouettes and elevated suiting served as a canvas for prints applying creative liberties to the shapes found in animalia and flowers, alongside eye-catching details like feathers, sequins, and sparkles. Looks we loved included a black and yellow bra and full skirt in zebra print, a knit mini dress with cut-outs featuring a flaming tiger graphic styled with chunky green sandals and a leather handbag, and a black and white striped set complete with an oversized blazer and boots embellished with brass charms.