As Milan Fashion Week comes to a close, we’re sharing the final touches on Fall/Winter 2023 menswear designs from Dsquared2, Kiton, Brunello Cucinelli, Canali, Giorgio Armani, and Zegna.
Courtesy of Dsquared2.
Dsquared2 invoked its first women’s runway show, the vibrant and memorable “Star 24/7” from 2003, for the latest presentation of a co-ed Fall Winter 2023 collection. Twenty years later, a fresh brigade of teenage icons—the jock, the goth, the emo, and the femme—rocked the runway with fluidity, freedom, and utter confidence. Denim was elaborately quilted, finding ebb and flow in frayed, low-slung, decadent wide or slim styles; the everyday classic was paired with Western flairs, dynamic puffers, and lacey tanks. The brand embraced the dynamism of youthful experimentation with fringed varsity jackets and exquisitely embroidered cowboy boots paired with preppy striped socks. “Darlin” jersey tanks, glossy unisex duchesse parkas, and Pac-Man t-shirts were fun, flirty, and attention-grabbing. Motorcycle jackets and accompanying leather pants were skillfully deconstructed. DSquared2’s 25-year-old trademark metal-branded buckle belts were revitalized with Western and gothic lettering atop the new Belt Bags. The icing on the cake was the thermoplastic heart-shaped bag, in yellow and bubble pink.
Courtesy of Kiton.
The unconventional yet masterful tailoring of Kiton’s KNT designs took bold and refreshing turns with the Fall Winter 23/24 collection. Sporty and elegant, a créme-colored velvet puffer jacket was paired with olive green dungarees and minimalistic sneakers in a compelling take on sumptuous streetwear. Refined teddy coats and vests in cool gray and off-white provided warmth and sophistication (for men and women alike) over soft sweaters and shirt jackets. Everyday essentials such as nylon jackets, sweatpants, and sweatshirts were coolly understated and made complete with the KNT logo. Suit jackets could easily transition from day, to night, to after hours in cappuccino-hued and midnight blue corduroy, with show-stopping iterations in velvet pinstripe. Perfectly slouching jeans and corduroy pants were paired with cozy sky blue and milky white jean jackets with signature design work paying homage to the brand’s deep-rooted italian heritage. The Panda and Warrior capsules were a cheerful and artistic addition to the season’s collection; graphic prints of pandas with bamboo, or dynamic warrior faces, grazed oversized t-shirts, cargo pants, sweatshirts, and shirt jackets. Sentiments of peace, unity, and strength were evident in each and every stylish combination.
Courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli.
Brunello Cucinelli continued its renowned tradition for dazzling Italian craftsmanship with its debut of the Fall Winter 2023 collection. In an exquisite act of layering, classic turtlenecks were worn comfortably beneath suit jackets, puffy vests, and finely-tailored shirt jackets. Natural hues of gray, off-white, navy, cranberry, and soft black made mixing and matching as smooth as a breeze off the Alps. Two-tone vests and knit sweaters with minimalist designs were reminiscent of soft mountain ranges, quiet winter sunrises, and graphic falling snowflakes. Expertly tailored trousers and jeans were the ideal pairing with lustrous brown suede and leather boots. The season’s suits were the epitome of European elegance in flawless soft blue pinstripe, stone gray, and a romantic vintage-inspired offering in plaid and rich plum. A revelatory chocolate-hued varsity jacket boasted extravagant brown leather sleeves juxtaposed against a silk-lined hood. Velvet tuxedo jackets in black and wine were steeped in class and celebration for a treasured new year ahead.
Courtesy of Canali.
Canali presented “The Duality of Elegance” with its Fall Winter 2023 collection. Masculinity found its freest forms yet in stylish and relaxed evening wear and luxury casual wear; jackets and trousers were gentle and pure, sometimes topped with adventurous diamond quilted capes. The Double part collection offered singular handmade garments from suits to shirt jackets to hybrid outerwear options. Sustainability proved to be of the utmost importance for Canali, with items labeled “Care” to signify the use of premier certified organic and recycled fabrics. The brand’s trademark wool, cashmere, and silk made meaningful waves in down-to-earth camel and green, as well as in sophisticated city camouflage: black, gray, blue, and red. Each and every look was united and forward-thinking, rounded out with deluxe scarves, leather gloves, and shearling shoes.
Courtesy of Giorgio Armani.
Legendary atriums in the shimmering palazzos of Milan provided bountiful inspiration for Giorgio Armani’s Autumn/Winter 2023/24 collection. Hidden gardens and geometric marble were poetically reflected onto intricate and hypnotic knitwear, casual yet refined jackets and suiting, and extravagant, sporty outerwear. Premier cashmere, alpaca, and velvet found its way onto matching vests and trousers, sweaters bearing the distinguished Armani insignia, and polished shirt jackets and cargo pants. Timeless, natural hues of green, gray, black, and red (and the standout tiger print in a calf-length coat) was an ode to history, grandeur, and gentility.
Courtesy of Zegna.
Italian luxury fashion house Zegna debuted a peaceful sea of classic, lavish looks for its Winter 2023 collection. Traditional waffle knits and modern, multidimensional shirt jackets in tawny hues gave way to delicately textured coats and leather jackets in various shades of lush gray. Oversized, silky suit jackets, with energizing cropped sleeves, were paired with graciously wide trousers for an air of authentic, contemporary sophistication. Substantial collared knit sweaters and pants in crème, red, and yellow exuded worldliness, joy, and relaxation. Grand turtlenecks were topped off by quietly tailored long coats, cropped puffer jackets, and wool coats. Multi-zipper, compact and functional leather handbags, understated shoes, and sleek, geometric sunglasses completed the graceful and free-flowing collection, pure and simple.
