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NYFW SS20: Brandon Maxwell, Proenza Schouler, and L’Agence

New York Fashion Week is winding down, so we’re highlighting details from some of our favorite presentations. Below, we spotlight Spring/Summer 2020 collections from Brandon Maxwell, Proenza Schouler, and L’Agence.

Last Saturday, Brandon Maxwell presented his new collection in a near and dear space—his home borough of Brooklyn, and at “Brandon’s.” We first approached the Williamsburg venue to find a Shake Shack food truck parked outside and a large neon “Brandon’s” sign hanging above the dark entryway. Both drew us near, leading us first into a large space that branched off the end of the runway. To the righthand side, special attendees gathered in Brandon’s—a one-night-only club full of cotton candy, cookies, cocktails in sippy cups, and matcha drinks. Making way to our bleacher seats, we noticed placeholders in the form of a bill—think electricity bill, not dollar bill—to designate. The cheeky references continued, with a mix of ‘90s and country music blaring over loudspeakers. Stage lights hung, flickering and dancing on the runway before the models made their entrance. A flowing, free spirit made up the atmosphere, dotted with models in the new collection—of all backgrounds, with some wearing more and less than others (like booty shorts or hijabs). Special for the show was Brandon Maxwell’s inaugural menswear line, as well, so men proudly walked in the ten new distinct looks. Materials like denim, jersey, wool knits, and silk were layered for special depth, too, and accessories complemented all ensembles. Small, clear purses worn around the neck were seen, as were large bags carried by hand over the shoulder. We saw a long silk dress—almost a detached top and skirt—held together at the front by a small closure seam, and what appeared to be a wedding dress (or perhaps a very perfect white number for what could be a very perfect wedding). Elegance, woven with a casual attitude, made up the show. Additionally, the show’s partners—ChaCha Matcha, Dell Technologies, Deborah Lippmann, and Nine Banded Whiskey—all participated in contributing funds to the Fashion Scholarship Fund (FSF) to support their scholars. For the finale, models walked hand-in-hand cheerfully down the runway, before Maxwell appeared for a walk and a wave with members of his atelier.

Brandon Maxwell. Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell.

Perhaps gained from the side of a construction site, Proenza Schouler’s runway set used scaffolding to frame the new collection. For Spring/Summer 2020, Creative Directors Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez examined what the word and meaning of “fashion” means today. Expressing it with an idea to dream (and dress) boldly, they presented a translation of their memories. Although very different, they were both submerged in American youth culture. The new collection is a translation of their combined ideas and fascinations, and we see that in gorgeously draped dresses, tops, and jumpsuits—most tapered at the neck or around the waist with a leather trim or belt. Tuxedo jackets opened wide at the neck to bare the tops of chests, and colorful patterned dresses with boat neck openings were taken in at the waist. Bags of all shapes and sizes were seen in hand, shoes with padded straps were seen wrapping around ankles, and small sunglasses and large earrings caught attention for their sleek, subdued details.

L’Agence debuted its new collection at Root Studios in the heart of the Chelsea arts district. Inspired by a love for the Mediterranean, the collection encompassed a diverse wardrobe that can travel with the modern woman—from home to work, and from cocktail events to other cities. The presentation was a welcoming one—with florals and greenery seemingly straight from the French and Italian Rivieras. Models were donned in couture-inspired details, seen exemplified in the clothing’s tailoring and fabrics. Wearable pieces with architectural cuts were seen infused with the ease of a Los Angeles lifestyle, eluding to a lifestyle that’s both relaxed and ready. Woven hats, belted cardigans, and white pant suits were topped with silk head scarves and paired with elegant strappy sandals.

Brandon Maxwell. Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell.



Brandon Maxwell. Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell.



Brandon Maxwell. Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell.



Proenza Schouler. Courtesy of Proenza Schouler.



Proenza Schouler. Courtesy of Proenza Schouler.





The fall/winter 2024 collections of Khaite, Gentle Monster, Prabal Gurung, Eckhaus Latta, Proenza Schouler, and Area.
We're looking at the best of New York Fashion Week, from fall/winter 2024 runway shows by LUAR, Puppets & Puppets, Concept Korea, Gabriela Hearst, Cucculelli Shaheen, and Brandon Maxwell. 
Debuted with an online runway show, Brandon Maxwell's Spring/Summer 2021 collection embodies a practical elegance.


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