We’re bringing you the best of Milan Fashion Week, as it comes to a close. Designers flaunted clothes that ranged from provocative to polished. We’ve compiled our favorites from Missoni, BALLY, Versace, Brioni, and Sunnei.
Missoni Has Fun With Stripes
Courtesy of Missoni.
“I wanted to have some fun,” said Missoni creative director Filippo Grazioli backstage. What followed was a procession of stripes galore. There were bulbous knitted tops, plunging jumpsuits, and tights peeking out from dramatic slits up the knee of long dresses—all, of course, decked out with stripes. The stripes varied dramatically in size, from barely-there geometric patterns to massive blocks of color. Catsuits were graced with thin lines all the way down the body, while dresses featured assertive horizontal stripes across the chest. It’s a kaleidoscopic acid trip of a collection, coming in raspberry pink and the color of blueberries, with a hypnotic rhythm that made each piece appear to dance as its wearer moves.
BALLY Celebrates Swiss Folklore and Alpine Mysticism
Courtesy of Bally, photo by Filippo Fior / Gorunway.com.
For her sophomore collection with BALLY, designer Simone Bellotti drew from the pastoral tales of Swiss folklore and Alpine mysticism as sources of inspiration. Mermaids, sirens, spirits living in lakes—all of these figures played a part in the lush fantasy of the label’s newest showcase. The siren’s tail was nodded to in flared forms that hugged the body. Texture was given with materials like shearling and waxy leathers; mohair and alpine jacquard knits accompanied draped satin and corduroy. Instead of opting for literal translations of her thematic material, Bellotti gave her pieces a sense of mysticism through their earthy colors and pops of Swiss red. There was the label’s heritage footwear, too, that brought 170 years of tradition and craftsmanship to the table. It’s as if BALLY was celebrating its own folklore this season.
Versace Mixes Provocation and Decorum
Courtesy of Versace.
“This collection has a rebel attitude and a kind heart. The woman is a good girl with a wild soul. She is prim but sexy. Don’t mess with her! The man is her soulmate, a shy genius. They are breaking the rules to make new ones… This is us. This is Versace!” Donatella Versace declared of her label’s newest offering. It’s easy to see why. Signature metal mesh was draped over distressed denim; liquid micro sequins featured alongside stacked belt buckles, and red leather clung to the skin seductively. Though models donned heavy eyeliner and spiked hair, opulence remained the language of this collection, in large part thanks to the exacted mix of provocation and decorum that revealed itself in every piece.
Brioni Steps Into the Womenswear Arena with Precision
Courtesy of Brioni.
With its first-ever presentation solely devoted to womenswear, Brioni built on what it is best at: tailoring. As executive design director Norbert Stumpfl shared, “The collection comes from the same place as the menswear, with the same ideas, colors, and materials. Although we have introduced some new shapes.” Relaxed silhouettes allowed the wearer to move freely, whether she wore a luxe cape or a cashmere trench. Most importantly, skill and precision were infused into every piece, thanks to double-splittable construction—a painstaking technique that involves sewing together the faces of two separate fabrics to give the aesthetic and fluidity of a single cloth. The color palette was muted and calm, with shades like coffee brown and burgundy.
Sunnei Lets Us Know What Its Models Are Really Thinking
Courtesy of Sunnei.
Atop a pyrotechnic carpet streaked with fluorescent lines, models walked to the sound of their own thoughts. Sunnei forwent a traditional soundtrack for its newest show, instead amplifying pre-recorded thoughts from the models like “Oh God. At the end of the catwalk, do I turn right or left?” and “Walk straight. Don’t bite your lips. Am I breathing too much? Try to not fall.” and “Oh gosh… The noise of my stomach. Oh, I can’t wait to eat some pasta. Mmm, Italian pasta, fusilli, ravioli, risotto. Mmmm….”
Sunnei is a label known for its provocations, and this season, the clothing was just as titillating as the environment that surrounds it. A few pieces were cut from the same cloth as the carpet itself, with slanted stripes in vibrant colors that feel reminiscent of childhood. Fluffy jumpers came in mohair with berets to match, and a tremendously oversized puffer jacket looked like a duvet cover that zips. Satin garments were given daring asymmetrical cut-outs, and fringes were ever-so-miculously crafted.
